Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
To access the galleries, walk up the switchback ramp at the northern end of the inner
narthex. When you reach the top, you'll find a large circle of green marble marking the
spot where the throne of the empress once stood. The view over the main space towards
the apse from this vantage point is quite spectacular.
In the south gallery (straight ahead and then left) are the remnants of a magnificent
Deesis (Last Judgement). This 13th-century mosaic depicts Christ with the Virgin Mary
on his left and John the Baptist on his right.
Close by is the Tomb of Enrico Dandolo .
Further on, at the eastern (apse) end of the gallery, is an 11th-century mosaic depicting
Christ Enthroned with Empress Zoe and Constantine IX Monomakhos . When this
portrait was started, Zoe (r 1042) was 50 years old and newly married (for the first time)
to the aged Romanus III Argyrus. Upon Romanus' death in 1034, she had his face excised
from the mosaic and replaced it with that of her virile new husband and consort, Michael
IV. Eight years later, with Michael dead from an illness contracted on a military campaign,
Zoe, helped by her sister Theodora, ruled as empress in her own right, but did it so badly
that it was clear she would have to marry again. At the age of 64, she wed an eminent sen-
ator, Constantine IX Monomakhos (r 1028-55), whose portrait was added here and re-
mains only because he outlived the empress.
To the right of Zoe and Constantine is a 12th-century mosaic depicting the Virgin
Mary, Emperor John Comnenus II and Empress Eirene . The emperor, who was
known as 'John the Good', is on the Virgin's left and the empress, who was known for her
charitable works, is to her right. Their son Alexius , who died soon after the portrait was
made, is depicted next to Eirene.
In the north gallery, look for the 10th-century mosaic portrait of Emperor Alexandros .
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