Moloka'i - Hawaii - page 802

able for $165 each per night. (Also, a one-bedroom cottage by 20 Mile Beach is available
for $200 per night.)
The ranch is also a certified organic farm growing tropical fruits and ʻawa (kava, a
native plant used to make an intoxicating drink). If you are staying in one of the east Mo-
lokaʻi rentals, they will drop off a 10lb box of organic fruits and vegetables ($25) on their
way to town on Thursdays; otherwise goods from the ranch can be found at Kaun-
akakai's Saturday morning market ( Click here ) . A small store ( 9am-4pm Mon-Fri)
along the road has snacks, drinks, some of the ranch's fine produce and a few locally
made gifts.
A hidden grove of sacred kukui (candlenut trees) on the ranch property marks the
grave of the prophet Lanikaula, a revered 16th-century kahuna (priest, healer). One of the
reasons the battling armies of Maui and Oʻahu steered clear of Molokaʻi for centuries
was the powerful reputations of such kahuna, who were said to have been able to pray
their enemies to death. Many islanders claim to have seen the night lanterns of ghost
marchers bobbing along near the grove.
Past mile marker 25, the jungle closes in and the scent of eucalyptus fills the air. About
1.25 miles further on, you round a corner and the fantastic panorama of the Halawa Val-
ley sweeps into view. Stop and enjoy the view for a bit. Depending on recent rains, the
Moaʻula and Hipuapua Falls will either be thin strands or gushing white torrents back up
the valley. In winter, look across the swirl of waves and volcanic sand below for the
spectacle of whales breaching.
The recently paved road descends into the valley at a steep but manageable rate. Cyc-
lists will love the entire ride, with the exception of having to stay alert for errant drivers
in rental cars mesmerized by the views.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Halawa Valley
Halawa Valley enjoys end-of-the-road isolation, which residents guard jealously, and
stunningly gorgeous scenery. It was an important settlement in precontact Molokaʻi, with
a population of more than 1000 and a complex irrigation system watering more than 700
taro patches. Little remains of its three heiau sites, two of which are thought to have been
luakini, but you'll probably still feel the charge down here.
As late as the mid-19th century, the fertile valley still had a population of about 500
and produced most of Molokaʻi's taro, as well as many of its melons, gourds and fruits.
However, taro production came to an abrupt end in 1946, when a massive tsunami swept