Maui - Hawaii - page 721

The most extreme of Haleakalā's hikes is the Kaupo Trail, which starts at the Paliku
camp-ground and drops to Kaupo on the southern coast. Be prepared for ankle-twisting
conditions, blistered feet, intense tropical sun and torrential showers. Your knees will
take a pounding as you descend more than 6100ft over 8.6 miles, but you'll be rewarded
with spectacular ocean views.
The first 3.7 miles of the trail drop 2500ft in elevation before reaching the park bound-
ary. It's a steep rocky trail through rough lava and brushland, with short switchbacks al-
ternating with level stretches. From here, the great ocean views begin.
The last 4.9 miles pass through Kaupo Ranch property on a rough jeep trail as it des-
cends to the bottom of Kaupo Gap, exit-ing into a forest where feral pigs snuffle about.
Here trail markings become vague, but once you reach the dirt road, it's another 1.5
miles to the end at the east side of the Kaupo Store.
The ʻvillage' of Kaupo is a long way from anywhere, with light traffic. Still, what
traffic there is - sightseers braving the circle-island road and locals in pickup trucks -
moves slowly enough along Kaupo's rough road to start conversation, so you'll probably
manage a lift. If you have to walk the final stretch, it's 8 miles to the ʻOheʻo Gulch
campground.
Because this is such a strenuous and remote trail, it's not advisable to hike it alone. No
camping is allowed on Kaupo Ranch property, so most hikers spend the night at the Pa-
liku campground and then get an early start.
Hosmer Grove Trail HIKING
For an easy leg-stretcher - and a little greenery - after hiking the crater, try this mostly
shaded woodland walk. Birders should wing it here as well. The half-mile loop trail starts
at Hosmer Grove campground, 0.75 miles south of Park Headquarters Visitor Center, in a
forest of lofty trees.
The exotics in Hosmer Grove were introduced in 1910 in an effort to develop a lumber
industry in Hawaii. Species include fragrant incense cedar, Norway spruce, Douglas fir,
eucalyptus and various pines. Although the trees adapted well enough to grow, they
didn't grow fast enough at these elevations to make tree harvesting practical. Thanks to
this failure, today there's a park here instead.
After the forest, the trail moves into native shrubland, with ʻakala (Hawaiian rasp-
berry), kilau ferns and sandalwood. The ʻohelo, a berry sacred to the volcano goddess
Pele, and the pukiawe, which has red and white berries and evergreen leaves, are favored
by nene.
Listen for the calls of the native ʻiʻiwi and ʻapapane, both sparrow-size birds with
bright red feathers that are fairly common here. The ʻiʻiwi has a loud, squeaking call, or-