Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of the word. The sole commercial venture on the entire road is Kaupo Store MAP (
248-8054; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) , which sells snacks and drinks and is worth popping in-
side just to see the antique displays - from old bottles to paintings to vintage cameras -
lining the shelves.
Kaupo's prettiest sight, the whitewashed 1859 Hui Aloha Church MAP , sits perched
above the striking black-sand Mokulau Beach , an ancient surfing site.
Kaupo to ʻUlupalakua Ranch
Past Kaupo village, you'll be rewarded with striking views of Kaupo Gap , the southern
opening in the rim of majestic Haleakalā. Near mile marker 31 a short 4WD road runs
down to Nuʻu Bay , favored by locals for fishing and swimming; if you're tempted to hit
the water, stay close to shore, as riptides inhabit the open ocean beyond.
Just east of mile marker 30 are two gateposts marking the path to dramatic Huakini
Bay . Park at the side of the highway and walk down the rutted dirt drive. It takes just a
couple of minutes to reach this rock-strewn beach whipped by violent surf. After mile
marker 29, watch for a natural lava sea arch MAP that's visible from the road. Near this
point, the quality of the road vastly improves.
At mile marker 19 the road crosses a vast lava flow dating from Haleakalā's last-gasp
eruption. This flow, part of the Kanaio Natural Area Reserve, is the same one that covers
the La Peʻrouse Bay area. It's still black and barren all the way down to the sea.
Just offshore is Kahoʻolawe and on a clear day you can even see the Big Island pop-
ping its head up above the clouds. It's such a wide-angle view that the ocean horizon is
noticeably curved. You'll wonder how anyone could ever have thought the world was
flat!
As you approach ʻUlupalakua Ranch, groves of fragrant eucalyptus trees replace the
drier, scrubbier terrain. New on the horizon are eight towering windmills. The turbines
are part of the Auwahi Wind Farm , which is managed by Sempra US Gas & Oil on acre-
age leased from the ranch. The wind farm started producing electricity in 2012 and
should produce enough to power 10,000 Maui homes.
A few miles ahead is Bully's Burgers ( Click here ) , a rugged burger outpost, soon fol-
lowed by Tedeschi Vineyards ( Click here ) . Cheers!
 
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