Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the ocean's edge. Cut out of slippery lava rock and encrusted with olivine minerals, these
incredibly clear pools sit in the midst of roaring surf. If you're tempted to go in, size it up
carefully - people unfamiliar with the water conditions here have been swept into the sea
and drowned. If the rocks are covered in silt from recent storm runoffs, or the waves look
high, forget about it - it's dangerous. Although the baths are on public land, state offi-
cials do not recommend accessing them due to the hazardous conditions, including slip-
pery rocks, large and powerful surf, waves on ledges and strong currents.
That huge boulder with concave marks on the inland side of the road just before the
side, where the deepest indentations are, you might get a hollow sound. It's a bit resonant
if you hit it just right, though it takes some imagination to hear it ring like a bell.
Kahakuloa
An imposing 636ft-tall volcanic dome guards the entrance to Kahakuloa Bay like a lurk-
ing, watchful dragon. They say this photogenic landmark, known as
Kahakuloa Head
,
was a favorite cliff-diving spot of Chief Kahekili. Before the road drops into the valley,
there's a pull-off above town providing a bird's-eye view.
The bayside village of Kahakuloa, tucked at the bottom of a lush valley and embraced
by towering sea cliffs, retains a solidly Hawaiian character. Kahakuloa's isolation (popu-
lation about 100) has protected it from the rampant development found elsewhere on
Maui. Farmers tend taro patches, poi dogs wander across the road and a missionary-era
Protestant church
marks the village center. One of Hawaii's most accomplished ukulele
players, Richard Hoʻopiʻi, is the church minister.
You won't find stores, but villagers set up hard-to-miss roadside stands selling fruit
and snacks to day-trippers. For shave ice ($3), try Ululani's hot-pink stand. For free
samples of
ʻono
(delicious) banana bread, stop at Julia's lime-green
shack
(
www.juliasbananabread.com
)
where a loaf costs $6 - and tastes fresh for days.
Kahakuloa to Waiheʻe
On the outskirts of Kahakuloa, after a harrowing, narrow climb, you'll reach the hilltop
near mile marker 14. The gallery sells works by more than 100 island artists, with water-
colors, jewelry, native-fiber baskets, pottery and more. A locator map on the front porch
tells you how many more twisty miles you'll need to drive in either direction to reach rel-
ative safety.
