Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
others with trapped bubbles of poison gas. Instead, take a tour guide from
Kalapana.
Kalapana (Former Village)
As with Kapoho in 1960, so it was for Kalapana 30 years later: in 1990 a redirection of
the ongoing eruption buried most of this village, destroying 100 homes and obliterating
what was once Hawaiʻi's most famous black-sand beach, Kaimu Beach.
Today Hwy 137 ends abruptly at the eastern edge of what used to be Kalapana. A few
houses here were spared and sit surrounded by devastation. The dead-end now contains a
modest complex catering to tourists and an outpost of the Hawaiian sovereignty move-
ment. Grab a good burger or plate lunch at
Kalapana Village Cafe
(12-5037 Pahoa
Kalapana Rd [Hwy 137]; mains $8-11; 8am-9pm)
, or sidle up to
Uncle's Awa Bar
(
3-10pm)
, where you can try kava and rub elbows with locals. Live music goes off here a
lot.
One conversation starter is the adjacent billboard display promoting the establishment
of the 'lawful Hawaiian government.' The display provides a full account of Hawaiian
history, past and present, from a native perspective. Visitors can contract guides here for
lava walks
(flow permitting) for $100, or arrange via Lava Ocean Adventures (
Click
Visitors should note that the entire lava flow, both here and at the lava-viewing area
covers private land, and trespassing is illegal. While there are no fences or ʻno tres-
passing' signs, know that if you walk across the flow - guided or unguided - you do so
at your own risk.
Finally, a short, public-access walk across the lava leads to
New Kaimu Beach
(aka
Coconut Beach
), where hundreds of baby coconut palms surround a black comma of
sand. The water is too rough to swim, but it's a reflective spot.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Highway 130
Red Rd intersects Hwy 130 (Old Kalapana Rd), which leads north to Pahoa. At mile
marker 20 the 1929
Star of the Sea Church
(
9am-4pm)
is noted for the naive-style
paintings that cover the walls and the trompe l'oeil mural behind the altar, whose illusion
of depth is remarkably effective. Inside, displays recount the history of the church and of
