Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
backs. Hunters still use this trail to track feral pigs. The hike is exposed and hot, so cover
this stretch early.
Eventually the trail moves into ironwood and Norfolk pine forest, and tops a little
knoll before gently descending and becoming muddy and mosquito-ridden. The view of
the ocean gives way to the sounds of a rushing stream. The trail crosses a gulch and as-
cends past a sign for Emergency Helipad No 1. For the next few hours the trail finds a
steady rhythm of gulch crossings and forest ascents. A waterfall at the third gulch is a
source of fresh water; treat it before drinking. For a landmark, look for Emergency
Helipad No 2 at about the halfway point from Waipiʻo Beach. Beyond that, there's an
open-sided emergency shelter with pit toilets and Emergency Helipad No 3.
Rest here before making the final difficult descent. Leaving the shelter, hop across
three more gulches and pass Emergency Helipad No 4, from where it's less than a mile to
Waimanu Valley. This final section of switchbacks starts out innocently enough, with
some artificial and natural stone steps, but over a descent of 1200ft the trail is poorly
maintained and extremely hazardous later. A glimpse of
Waiʻilikahi Falls
(accessible by
a 45-minute stroll) on the far side of the valley might inspire hikers to press onward, but
beware: the trail is narrow and washed out in parts, with sheer drop-offs into the ocean
and no handholds apart from mossy rocks and spiny plants. If the descent is questionable,
head back to the trail shelter for the night.
Waimanu Valley
is a mini Waipiʻo, minus the tourists. It once had a sizable settlement
and contains many ruins, including house and heiau terraces, stone enclosures and old
loʻi
. In the early 19th century an estimated 200 people lived here, but the valley was
abandoned by its remaining three families after the 1946 tsunami. Today you'll bask
alone amid a stunning deep valley framed by cliffs, waterfalls and a boulder-strewn
beach.
From the bottom of the switchbacks, Waimanu Beach is 10 minutes past the camping
regulations signboard. To ford the stream to reach the campsites on its western side,
avoid a rope strung across the water, which is deep there. Instead, cross closer to the
ocean entry where it is shallower. Camping requires a state permit for a maximum of six
nights. There are nine campsites of your choice: recommended are No 2 (full valley
views, proximity to stream, grassy spot); No 6 (view of Waiʻilikahi Falls, access to the
only sandy beach); and No 9 (very private at the far end of the valley, lava-rock chairs
and a table). Facilities include fire pits and composting outhouses. There's a spring about
10 minutes behind campsite No 9 with a PVC pipe carrying water from a waterfall; all
water must be treated.
On the return trip, be careful to take the correct trail. Walking inland from Waimanu
Beach, don't veer left on a false trail-of-use that attempts to climb a rocky streambed. In-
