Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Waipiʻo Valley
Beautiful and maddening, there's no doubt that Waipi'o Valley occupies a special place
on an already special island, and for reasons as tangled as the boughs of a monkeypod
tree. Reaching the end of Hwy 240, you look out across a spectacular natural amphitheat-
er, as if an enormous scoop has subtracted a chunk of coastline, one of seven such val-
leys carved into the windward side of the Kohala Mountains. The valley goes back 6
miles, its flat floor an emerald patchwork of jungle, huts and taro patches crowned by the
awesome sight of
Hiʻilawe
, a distant ribbon of white falling 1450ft, making it the longest
waterfall in the state. A river winds through it all (Waipiʻo means 'curving water'), to a
black sand beach squeezed between dramatic running cliffs that disappear around the
corner of the island.
So what's the rub? Waipi'o Valley is the one place on the Big Island where the aloha
spirit has faded. The valley walls contain some very territorial residents, with a long his-
tory of disagreement with the outside world. And like all deep conflicts, this one has two
sides. Some 50 in number, the residents point out that their home is sacred in traditional
Hawaiian culture, contains an intangible spiritual energy, holds a special place in Hawaii
history, is limited in space, and has a natural beauty that must be protected from too
many visitors. Others above the rim and beyond claim that the valley's residents simply
wish to separate themselves from the outside world, for a variety of reasons ranging from
misanthropy to marijuana. This is, after all, the end of the road, on an island in the
middle of the Pacific Ocean. In any case, if you are of a mind that the mainland has gone
mad, Waipi'o may be the last holdout, and that alone makes it irresistible.
For visitors, all of this has a practical impact: if you wish to descend into the valley,
you can explore Waipi'o Beach and take the King's Trail to Nanewe Falls, but that is ba-
sically it, unless you pay for a tour (and even those are limited in range). Hiking along
Waipi'o Stream to Hi'ilawe is no longer recommended as you must either traverse
private land or walk in the stream itself, which is difficult and somewhat hazardous. Hav-
ing said that, for the average person the beach and the King's Trail are more than enough
to satisfy your curiosity, and if you want more, you can head over the ridge toward
Waimanu on the Muliwai Trail and explore to your heart's content. So at the moment
there is a workable treaty in place if everyone adheres to it. For those content with a pho-
tograph from afar, the scenic lookout on the rim of the valley is your destination, a place
to reflect on how paradise can get so complicated.
