Travel Reference
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a dramatically windswept and lonely site. Though the ruined walls leave a lot to be ima-
gined, it's worth the drive for the commanding views, especially at sunset.
Puʻu o Mahuka means 'hill of escape' - but this was a luakini heiau, where human
sacrifices took place. Likely dating from the 17th century, the temple's stacked-stone
construction is attributed to the legendary menehune (the 'little people' who, according
to legend, built many of Hawaii's fishponds, heiau and other stonework), who are said to
have completed their work in just one night.
Do not walk around inside or atop the fragile lava-rock walls, to avoid damaging them.
To get here, turn mauka (inland) onto Pupukea Rd by the Foodland supermarket; the
monument turnoff is about 0.5 miles uphill, from where it's another roughshod 0.7 miles
to the heiau.
Sleeping
Like elsewhere on the North Shore, available accommodations are mostly vacation rent-
als. Book online with websites like VRBO ( www.vrbo.com ), HomeAway
( www.homeaway.com ) and Air B&B ( www.airbnb.com ) or through local real-estate
agencies, for example, in Haleʻiwa.
Backpackers Vacation Inn & Plantation Village HOSTEL $
( 638-7838; http://backpackers-hawaii.com ; 59-788 Kamehameha Hwy; dm $27-30, d $62-85,
studio/2br/3br cabin from $120/170/215; ) The only budget option around is this
scruffy backpacker crash pad. In keeping with the surf-shack vibe, digs are modest to the
point of being ramshackle. If you don't mind peeling paint and thrown-together decor,
you'll feel right at home. Hostel dorms share baths and kitchens, while the village is a
groovy collection of beach cabins, some private. The hostel is located between Waimea
Bay and Pupukea Beach Park.
Ke Iki Beach Bungalows VACATION RENTAL $$$
( 866-638-8229, 638-8229; http://keikibeach.com ; 59-579 Ke Iki Rd; 1br/2br apt from $205/230;
) Just north of Pupukea Beach Park, these hideaway retreats show admittedly dated
tropical flair, with rattan chairs and hammocks strung between coconut trees that fit the
beachfront setting like a glove. Each of the apartment-style units has a full kitchen, cable
TV, phone and wi-fi, and all guests have access to a BBQ grill and picnic tables.
The location is idyllic - oceanfront units are right on the sand, while others are just a
minute's walk from the water. Cleaning surcharges ($50 to $100) apply. Ask about
weekly discounts.
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