Travel Reference
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This historic downtown neighborhood is packed with open-air markets, hole-in-the-wall
noodle kitchens, dim sum palaces, pan-Asian kitchens and fusion resto-lounges.
Bangkok Chef THAI $
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( http://bangkokchefexpress.com ; 1627 Nuʻuanu Ave; mains $8-10; 10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat,
noon-8pm Sun) Eating here feels strangely like eating out of someone's garage, but who
cares when the Thai curries, noodle dishes and savory salads taste exactly like they're
from a Bangkok street cart? Dessert is mango ice cream over sticky rice topped with
salty peanuts, or tapioca pudding cups in a rainbow of flavors - try Okinawan sweet
potato or taro.
To Chau VIETNAMESE $
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(1007 River St; mains $7-10; 8:30am-2:30pm) Always busy, To Chau holds fast to its repu-
tation for Honolulu's best phõ (Vietnamese noodle soup). Beef, broth and vegetables -
the dish is a complete meal in itself, but the menu also includes other Vietnamese stand-
ards. Just over a dozen tables inside equals long queues underneath the restaurant's
battered-looking sign outside.
Downbeat DINER $
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( www.downbeatdiner.com ; 42 N Hotel St; mains $5-15; 11am-midnight Mon, to 3am Tue-Thu, to
4am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; ) This shiny late-night diner with lipstick-red booths posts
a serious comfort-food menu of salads, sandwiches, burgers and heaping breakfasts of
loco moco (dish of rice, fried egg and hamburger patty topped with gravy or other condi-
ments) and island sweet-bread French toast. Otto's cheesecake is unbelievably addictive.
Royal Kitchen CHINESE $
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( http://royalkitchenhawaii.com ; Chinatown Cultural Plaza, 100 N Beretania St; snacks $1-2.50, plate
lunches $5-8; 5:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 6:30am-4:30pm Sat, 6:30am-2:30pm Sun) Facing the
riverside pedestrian mall, this harried takeout shop is worth finding for its manapua
(steamed or baked buns) with sweet and savory fillings like char siu (Chinese BBQ
pork), chicken curry, sweet potato, kalua pig or black sugar.
Lucky Belly ASIAN, FUSION $$$
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