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through the pan-Asian markets and poke around the alleyways of Chinatown, where
19th-century whalers once brawled.
Then escape the concrete jungle for a hike up into the lush valleys nestled beneath the
jagged Koʻolau Mountains, especially in the forest reserves around Mt Tantalus. At sun-
set, walk along Honolulu's historic harborfront or splash in the ocean at Ala Moana
Beach Park. After dark, hit up Chinatown's fusion kitchens, bars and nightclubs. You
won't even miss Waikiki, we promise.
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