Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
tion manager's cottage has a sweet grassy yard, car port, wide front porch, crown mould-
ings and wood floors throughout.
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Barking Sands
Between Kekaha Beach Park and Polihale State Park, the beach stretches for approxim-
ately 15 miles. However, since the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, consistent
public access has been restricted. This is because it is home to the US Navy base Barking
Sands Pacific Missile Range Facility. The missile-range facility at Barking Sands
provides the above-ground link to a sophisticated sonar network that tracks more than
1000 sq miles of the Pacific. Established during WWII, it's been developed into the
world's largest (possibly excluding blue whales) underwater listening device. Oh, and
there are tasty waves here, even if they are only open to a select few. Bring your military
ID. Casual tourists need not apply.
The navy is Kauaʻi's largest employer and it controversially occupies and prohibits ac-
cess to indigenous Hawaiian territory. Any move by the military to occupy more land
generates fervent protest.
Barking Sands earned its nickname because on days both sunny and windy (with the
planets lined up just right) the moving sands make sounds akin to those of barking dogs.
(Please send us a recording if you hear them.)
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Polihale State Park
Here is a 15-mile stretch of raw nectar. A beach thick, loamy and white that curls into
dunes that climb into bluffs, with a turquoise bay that thrashes the looming majesty of
the Na Pali cliffs. Yes, the northwesternmost end of the Na Pali Coast is unforgettable.
Most folks come to surf
Echoes
, a tremendous big-wave break at the northernmost end.
But if the currents aren't too rough, you'll be able to swim in
Queen's Pond
- a relat-
ively shallow swirl of sea that lines up perpendicular to the road, which peters out on the
bluffs above (we'll get to that road in a sec). Queen's Pond is sheltered by a reef, but surf
and current rage outside, so don't meander too far from shore.
Here's the catch, this beach is only accessible by a rugged, rutted 4.8-mile-long dirt
road that accesses the park from Mana village off Kaumualiʻi Hwy. This road takes a
beating from harsh conditions, which has made this state park something of a headache
