Kaua'i - Hawaii - page 964

Young buck surfers do love to paddle out at Hanakapi'ai, often hiking in barefoot with
boards under their arm (the bastards!). It shouldn't take you more than two hours to com-
plete this 4-mile (round-trip) trek, however. Locals suggest that you should never turn
your back on the ocean here, especially near the river mouth.
Hanakapiʻai Beach to Hanakapiʻai Falls HIKING
Once you get to Hanakapiʻai Beach, crowds thin (ever so slightly), as the work-reward
ratio compounds. These next 2 miles take you deeper into the forest, with an increasingly
sublime riverscape. You'll see the remains of age-old taro fields, and step through wild
guava groves before the canyon narrows, framed by mossy rock walls.
Though you might be tempted to take a swim at Hanakapiʻai Beach, it's best to wait
until the falls for such a treat. Here you'll enjoy a crisp emerald lagoon fed by threaded
falls that gather into a deluge. Signs suggest that you stand under the waterfall at your
own risk, but if you take that risk you will glimpse ribbons of water dancing and shifting
in formation texture and rhythm. This is an 8-mile round-trip hike, and if you start super
early, you'll arrive at the falls before the fanny pack brigade.
Hanakapiʻai Beach to Kalalau Valley HIKING
Past Hanakapiʻai Beach, the real challenge begins as the trail weaves in and out of sever-
al valleys for 9 more miles, offering vistas across the Pacific and leading to a camp-
ground on a pristine white sand beach. Near the end, the trail takes you across the front
of Kalalau Valley, where you'll feel dwarfed by 1000ft lava-rock cliffs.
The vibe at Kalalau camp is unforgettable. There is something of a semi-permanent
hippie community that lives here - their camp decorated with flags, hammocks and
Christmas lights - and most of the women and men who hang out here will sunbathe and
swim naked. Feel free to join the freedom brigade, it may just feel good. Diversions in-
clude building fires, doodling, climbing trees, napping, snacking, sipping whatever
hootch you may have toted along and star gazing. You will need a permit to travel this far
back in tropical time, to a place as suffused in life-affirming mana as it is blessed with
natural beauty. And you'll want a camera too.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
DRIVING WITH ALOHA
Lauded as the most scenic and breathtaking on the island, the drive to the ʻend of
the road' is impossibly beautiful. However, accidents have occurred from visitors
pulling over for photo-ops - please avoid being ʻthat person.' (You'll likely see at