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delicious intimacy here, as if the 'spirits' of this place were particularly benevol-
ent, welcoming us into their secret world, far from the mad chaos of the modern
world which was threatening the integrity of the great Amazon to the south. It was
December 1976, six years since the completion of the Trans-Amazon highway.
After a few hours' travel we landed on a lovely golden beach, and explored the
surrounding forest. It had a sacred hush about it—there was a powerful intelli-
gence here which knew of our presence and which was glad that we had come. We
spent a few quiet hours absorbing the subtle qualities of this place. Eventually,
saturated with an unexpected grace, we climbed into the dinghy and set off down-
stream towards our camp, letting ourselves drift on the current without using the
outboard motor. It was a gentle river without rapids—a few paddle strokes would
be enough to steer us all the way back. We drifted without speaking, our senses
alert to the sounds and sights of the vibrant forest.
Then we rounded a gentle bend in the river, and a whole new stretch of water
opened itself to our enchanted gaze. A long way ahead of us there was a large
fallen tree which had settled into the river, still connected to the shore by its giant
trunk. The tree was a rich dark brown, and in the thick fallen branches that lapped
the water we noticed a smudge of paler brown, difficult to make out in the dis-
tance. As we slowly drifted closer the pale brown smudge gradually resolved itself
into a definite from—it was as if a smoky shape slowly coalesced itself into being
out of nothingness.
It was Puma, one of the big cats of the forest, which had come down to drink
its fill of the luscious river water. Puma stood drinking, totally unaware of us as
we drifted silently closer. We blinked in amazement, for the forest seldom grants
audience with the big tawny brown one who roams quietly and secretly through its
great wild heart. It seemed as if time became thick, clear syrup pushing through
us slowly, ever so slowly, and even though a sequence of events unfolded, they
seemed to take place in some timeless realm which had for a few moments opened
its doors to us.
Then Puma raised her magnificent, wild face and gazed upon us. A palpable
sense of sinewy, relaxed intelligence rolled across the water towards us like tawny
smoke, and we breathed it in, astounded by its profound quality. Drops of wa-
ter fell from the short tufts of hair below Puma's mouth, sun-drenched diamonds
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