Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Box
1
Continued.
destinations. Thus, we are now seeing Sydney and Melbourne compete vigorously for the
title of Australia's 'foodie capital, and Brisbane newspapers promoting the opening of a new
gourmet restaurant as a major event on the local social calendar. Food and drink are also
the main factors that have breathed new life into various 'Chinatown' and other ethnic neigh-
bourhoods, further contributing to cultural legitimization, interaction and cosmopolitanism.
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Amidst this upbeat appraisal, we have to make sure that we recognize and address
the potential negative impacts of food tourism. It is well known that some tourists will visit a
destination for the thrill, cultural practice or perceived health benefit of consuming rare and
endangered species.
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Not illegal as such but just as concerning for the environment and
for animal ethics are products such as shark's fin soup and foie gras, which are prominently
featured in some food destinations. There are also health concerns, ironically, that arise from
the incorrect production or storage of unpasteurised milk or cheese; associated disease
outbreaks can have devastating consequences for a destination's marketing image, not
to mention the victims. More unusually, the Heart Attack Grill in Las Vegas attracts tourists
with its unapologetically unhealthy menu, which includes the quadruple-bypass burger and
French fries cooked in pure lard. This is part of the dark or perverse side of food tourism, and
one that the purists no doubt would prefer to ignore. Another perversity is that the carbon
footprint of food tourism may actually be higher than for processed foods sourced from a
distance, due to the carbon released by the automobiles of visiting tourists.
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Finally, we need to consider the association between elitism and some forms of food
tourism (not a problem with the Heart Attack Grill!). Not everyone can feast on black truf-
fles in Manjimup, and we have to consider the social consequences of fostering a tourism
product that distinguishes the 'haves' from the 'have-nots. It is also possible that demand
from high-income tourists will drive up prices of desirable local products so that they are no
longer affordable for most local residents. If we are truly interested in pursuing the path of
sustainable tourism, then all such uncomfortable issues must be confronted - but the end
result would well be worth the extra effort.
Contribution by Dr David Weaver, Professor of Tourism Research, Department of Tourism,
Sport and Hotel Management, Griffith Business School, Gold Coast Campus, Griffith University,
Queensland, Australia
The definition of slow food on their website states:
Slow food stands at the crossroads of ecology and gastronomy, ethics and
pleasure. It opposes the standardization of taste and culture, and the
unrestrained power of the food industry multinationals and industrial
agriculture. We believe everyone has a fundamental right to the pleasure of
good food and consequently the responsibility to protect the heritage of food
tradition and culture that makes this pleasure possible.
Carlo could be considered as one of the founding fathers of the culinary
tourism movement. In 1989 the movement he started went international
with a declaration in Paris and in 1990 they published the first directory,
'Osterie d'Italia'; a major move forward came in 1996 when the Salone del
Gusto was established as a biennial event in Turin with the 'Ark of Taste'.
This event is now a major event and food tourism attraction in the slow
food movement where exhibitors from around the world now attend to
promote their local foods.
