Geology Reference
In-Depth Information
nearshore sediment budget (p. 422)
rip current (p. 414)
shoreline (p. 408)
spit (p. 418)
storm surge (p. 426)
submergent coast (p. 423)
tide (p. 409)
tombolo (p. 418)
trough (wave) (p. 410)
wave (p. 409)
wave base (p. 410)
wave-cut platform (p. 414)
wave refraction (p. 414)
Review Questions
1. A type of spit that connects a beach with an offshore
island is a
a. _____ headland;
b. _____ tombolo;
c. _____ sea stack;
d. _____ baymouth bar;
e. _____ breaker.
2. The distance wind blows over a continuous water sur-
face is the
a. _____ fetch;
b. _____ wavelength;
c. _____ trough;
d. _____ rip current;
e. _____ berm.
3. A marine terrace is
a. _____ a type of submergent coast;
b. _____ made up of the beach face and a berm;
c. _____ the highest level reached by storm waves;
d. _____ a wave-cut platform above sea level;
e. _____ the area exposed during neap tides.
4. Although there are some exceptions, most beaches
receive most of their sediment from
a. _____ erosion of reefs;
b. _____ shoreline rocks;
c. _____ coastal emergence;
d. _____ the deep seafl oor;
e. _____ streams and rivers.
5. A long narrow sand deposit separated from the main-
land by a lagoon is a
a. _____ tidal delta;
b. _____ beach cusp;
c. _____ barrier island;
d. _____ wave-built platform;
e. _____ marine terrace.
6. The most common depositional landforms along sea-
shores are
a. _____ beaches;
b. _____ sea arches;
c. _____ headlands;
d. _____ wave-dominated deltas;
e. _____ drift.
7. Erosion caused by the wearing action of water carrying
sand and gravel is known as
a. _____ solution;
b. _____ cavitation;
c. _____ abrasion;
d. _____ impacting;
e. _____ hydrolysis.
8. Longshore currents are generated by
a. _____ water fl owing offshore through the breaker
zone;
b. _____ waves striking the shore at an angle;
c. _____ the distance wind blows over water;
d. _____ submarine currents in the deep sea;
e. _____ erosion by abrasion and hydraulic action.
9. The time it takes for two successive wave crests (or
troughs) to pass a given point is known as the
a. _____ wave depth;
b. _____ wave celerity;
c. _____ wave period;
d. _____ wave fetch;
e. _____ wave height.
10. Water is driven onshore by __________ during
hurricanes.
a. _____ rogue waves;
b. _____ storm surges;
c. _____ low tides;
d. _____ hydraulic action;
e. _____ wave base.
11. Explain what wave base is and how it affects waves as
they enter shallow water.
12. How are waves responsible for transporting sediment
long distances along shorelines?
13. Why does an observer at a shoreline location experi-
ence two high and two low tides daily?
14. How do rising sea level and coastal development,
including developments on barrier islands, complicate
efforts to control shoreline erosion?
15. While driving along North America's West Coast, you
see a surface sloping gently toward the sea with several
masses of rock rising above it. How would you explain
the origin of this feature to your children?
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