The West Coast - New Zealand - page 821

The highway from Punakaiki to Greymouth is flanked by white-capped waves and rocky
bays on one side, and the steep, bushy Paparoa Ranges on the other.
At Barrytown , 17km south of Punakaiki, Steve and Robyn run Barrytown Knifemak-
ing ( 03-731 1053, 0800 256 433; www.barrytownknifemaking.com ; 2662 SH6, Barrytown;
classes $150; closed Mon) , where you can make your own knife - from hand-forging
the blade to crafting a handle from native rimu timber. The day-long course features
lunch, archery, axe-throwing and a stream of entertainingly bad jokes from Steve. Book-
ings essential, and transport from Punakaiki can be arranged.
With a rainforest backdrop and coastal views, Ti Kouka House ( 03-731 1460;
www.tikoukahouse.co.nz ; 2522 SH6, Barrytown; d incl breakfast $305; ) further amazes with
its splendid architectural design, recycled building materials, and sculptural artwork both
inside and out. It's an excellent B&B with three luxurious rooms.
Breakers ( 03-762 7743; www.breakers.co.nz ; 1367 SH6, Nine Mile Creek; d incl breakfast
$215-365; ) , 14km north of Greymouth, is one of the best-kept secrets on the coast.
Beautifully appointed en suite rooms overlook the sea, with fine surfing opportunities at
hand for the intrepid. The hosts are sporty, friendly and have a nice dog.
Two kilometres south is Rapahoe , 12km shy of Greymouth. This tiny seaside settle-
ment is the northern trailhead for the enjoyable Point Elizabeth Walkway ( Click here ).
Should you require refreshment before or after your walk, call in to the Rapahoe Hotel
(1 Beach Rd; mains $12-29) , a simple country pub offering warm hospitality and a good
feed of fish and chips in a picturesque location.
GREYMOUTH REGION
Bookending NZ's most famous alpine pass and sitting more or less halfway along the
West Coast highway, the Greymouth area provides easy access to the attractions north
and south as well as offering a decent smattering of diversions within its boundaries.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Greymouth
POP 8900
Welcome to the 'Big Smoke', crouched at the mouth of the imaginatively named Grey
River. The West Coast's largest town has gold in its veins, and today its fortunes still ebb
and flow with the tide of mining, although dairy farming and tourism top up the coffers.
The town is well geared for travellers, offering all the necessary services and the odd
tourist attraction, the most famous of which is Shantytown.