The West Coast - New Zealand - page 812

North along SH67, the road is pressed against the rocky shoreline by verdant hills. If
you're driving all the way up to Karamea, fill your tank in Westport as it's 98km to the
next petrol station.
The first town beyond Westport is Waimangaroa , with a shop worth a stop for a
homemade pie and ice cream. Here you'll also find the turn-off to the Denniston Plateau
( Click here ) , which can be surveyed in as little as an hour.
Sleepy Granity is 30km north of Westport. Little happens here save the passing of
flouro-vested mine workers heading up to Stockton , NZ's largest operational coal mine,
which is located 8km inland.
The next coastal cluster is Ngakawau , shortly followed by Hector where stands a
monument to Hector's dolphins, NZ's smallest, although you'll be lucky to see them un-
less your timing is impeccable.
Around 1km north of Hector is a rather special hostel nestled high on the hill amongst
native bush, with epic views of the Tasman Sea. The Old Slaughterhouse ( 027 529
7640, 03-782 8333; www.oldslaughterhouse.co.nz ; dm $32-36, d $80; sometimes closed Jun-
Oct) , built mainly from recycled timbers, is dotted with great art and eclectic fur-
niture, and has tranquil communal areas ideal for contemplation. The steep, 10-minute
walk up the hill is well worth the effort and bolsters the off-the-grid charm.
In these parts you'll find the Charming Creek Walkway . One of the best day-walks on
the Coast, this all-weather trail (six hours return) follows an old coal line through the
Ngakawau River Gorge. Along its length are rusty relics galore, tunnels, a suspension
bridge and waterfall, and lots of interesting plants and geological formations. Ask a local
about transport if you don't want to walk it both ways.
You can start the walkway at Ngakawau, where you'll find the Charming Creek B&B
( 03-782 8007; www.bullerbeachstay.co.nz ; Ngakawau; d incl breakfast $139-169; ) . The
rooms are indeed charming, and there's a driftwood-fired hot tub right by the sea where
the self-contained 'Beach Nest' bach sleeps 3 to 4 ($95 to $135, minimum two-night
stay). Ask about the two-night walking package, which includes dinners and a picnic
lunch.
The northern trailhead for the walkway is 10km beyond Seddonville , a small bush
town on the Mokihinui River where Seddonville Holiday Park ( 03-782 1314; 108 Glad-
stone St; campsites per person $10) offers respectable camping in the grounds of the old
school. This small dot on the map is about to get slightly bigger, being the northern trail-
head for the spectacular new Old Ghost Road ( Click here ).
At the Mokihinui River mouth, 3km off the highway, is the not-so-gentle Gentle An-
nie Beach , and salty Gentle Annie Coastal Enclave (

0274 188 587, 03-782 1826;