Marlborough & Nelson - New Zealand - page 761

11am-8pm) , where you can get fish and chips to eat on the wharf in the company of
seagulls, as well as delicious wood-smoked fish and pâté to go. There's also delightful
indoor dining at Jellyfish ( www.jellyfishmapua.co.nz ; Mapua Wharf; lunch $13-20, dinner $25-35;
) , where fishy dishes sit amid an inspiring menu of fusion cuisine.
In the same wharfside cluster you will undoubtedly sniff out the Golden Bear Brew-
ing Company ( www.goldenbearbrewing.com ; Mapua Wharf; meals $10-20) , a microbrewery
with tons of stainless steel out back and a dozen or so brews out front. Authentic Mexic-
an food will stop you from getting a sore head. Occasional live music, takeaway beers
and tours.
A few kilometres before the scenic route rejoins SH60 is Jester House
( www.jesterhouse.co.nz ; 320 Aporo Rd, Tasman; meals $13-23; 9am-5pm) . It alone is a good
reason to take this detour, as much for its tame eels as for the peaceful sculpture gardens
that encourage you to linger over lunch. A short, simple menu puts a few twists into
staples (wild pork burger, lavender shortbread), and there is local beer and wines. It's
8km to Mapua or Motueka.
Moutere Hwy
This road traverses gently rolling countryside, dotted with farms, orchards and lifestyle
blocks. Visitor attractions are fewer and far between, but it's a scenic, bucolic drive non-
etheless, particularly fruitful in high summer when the berry farms are on song. Local
producers and artists are listed at www.moutereartisans.co.nz .
The turn-off to the Moutere is signposted at Appleby on SH60. Not far along is the
turn-off to Old Coach Rd, from where you can follow the signs to Woollaston
( www.woollaston.co.nz ; School Rd, Upper Moutere; 11am-4.30pm) , a flash hilltop winery
complete with tasting room and contemporary art gallery. The patio is a spectacular place
to enjoy a platter for lunch.
Upper Moutere is the main settlement along this route. First settled by German im-
migrants and originally named Sarau, today it's a sleepy hamlet with a shop, cafe and al-
legedly NZ's oldest pub, the Moutere Inn ( www.moutereinn.co.nz ; 1406 Moutere Hwy; meals
$12-30) , complete with retro, workaday interior to match. This welcoming establishment
serves honest meals (pizza, burgers and fish 'n' chips) and quality, predominantly local
craft beer. Pull up a pew with a beer-tasting platter, sit outside on the sunny patio, or
come along at night to hear regular live music.
Continuing along the Moutere Hwy, Neudorf Rd is well signposted, leading as it does
to various delectables. Call into Neudorf Dairy ( www.neudorfdairy.co.nz ; 226 Neudorf Rd;
10am-5pm Wed-Sun) for award-winning hand-crafted sheeps-milk cheeses and a picnic, or