Wellington Region - New Zealand - page 690

Information
Martinborough i-SITE ( 06-306 5010; www.wairarapanz.com ; 18 Kitchener St; 9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) This small office stocks wine-region maps, including one
produced by the folks behind the useful site www.martinboroughnz.com .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cape Palliser
The Wairarapa coast south of Martinborough around Palliser Bay and Cape Palliser is re-
mote and sparsely populated, and a trip to its landmark lighthouse is a must-do if you can
spare the time and have your own wheels. The drive to the Cape is just over an hour, but
depending on stops you could take half- to a full day.
From Martinborough, the road wends through picturesque farmland before hitting the
coast along Cape Palliser Road . This section of the drive is intensely scenic as it hugs
the coast between the vast, wild ocean and black-sand beaches on the shoreside, and
sheer cliffs on the other. Look for shadows of the South Island, visible on a clear day.
In these environs lies a significant wilderness area, Aorangi (Haurangi) Forest Park ,
which offers backcountry tramping, camping and a DOC cottage for rent. Detailed in-
formation is available from Martinborough i-SITE. Within the park are the Putangirua
Pinnacles , accessed through the Putangirua Scenic Reserve where there is a DOC camp-
site and car park. Standing like giant organ pipes, these 'hoodoos' were formed by rain
washing silt and sand away and exposing the underlying bedrock. It's an easy 1½-hour
walk to the lookout, or take the 3½-hour loop track past hills and coastal viewpoints.
Heading south further along the coast is the wind-worn fishing village of Ngawi . The
first things you'll notice here are the rusty bulldozers on the beach, used to drag fishing
boats ashore. Note the grassy picnic spot next door. You won't find coffee here, but you
will get a taste of salt.
Next stop is the malodorous seal colony , the North Island's largest breeding area for
these fellers. Whatever you do in your quest for a photo, don't get between the seals and
the sea. If you block their escape route they're likely to have a go at you!
Just beyond stands the Cape Palliser Lighthouse , where you can get a few puffs into
the lungs on the 250-step climb to its foot. It's a beaut view from here, and a great place
to linger if the wind isn't blowing your eyeballs into the back of your head.
On the way there or back, take the short detour to the crusty waterside settlement of
Lake Ferry , overlooking Lake Onoke. The tastiest attraction here is the Lake Ferry Hotel