Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
East Cape to Tokomaru Bay
Heading through farmland south of Te Araroa, the first town you come to is
Tikitiki
. If
you haven't yet made it onto a
marae,
you'll get a fair idea of what you're missing out on
by visiting the extraordinary
St Mary's Church
(1924). It's nothing special from the out-
side, but step inside for a sensory overload. There are woven
tukutuku
(flax panels) on
the walls, geometrically patterned stained-glass windows, painted beams and amazing
carvings - check out the little guys holding up the pulpit. A stained-glass crucifixion
scene behind the pulpit depicts WWI Maori Battalion soldiers in attendance.
Amid the farming sprawl of
Rangitukia
, 8km down towards the coast from Tikitiki,
Eastender Horse Treks
( 06-864 3033;
www.eastenderhorsetreks.co.nz
;
836 Rangitukia Rd,
Rangitukia; 2/4hr treks $85/120)
runs horse rides along the beach and can hook you up with
bone-carving lessons (from $60). Note that the beach here is dicey for swimming.
Mt Hikurangi
(1752m), jutting out of the Raukumara Range, is the highest non-vol-
canic peak on the North Island and the first spot on Earth to see the sun each day. Ac-
cording to local tradition it was the first piece of land dragged up when Maui snagged the
North Island. The Ngati Porou version of the Maui story has his canoe and earthly re-
mains resting here on their sacred mountain.
FREEDOM TO CAMP
one of the few authorities to permit freedom camping (extremely cheap informal
camping), but only at a handful of designated sites between Te Araroa and Gis-
borne from the end of September to early April. You can apply for a permit online
for two, 10 or 28 consecutive nights at a cost of $10, $25 and $60 respectively.
Freedom camping is a privilege, so please follow the requirements in the GDC Free-
dom Campingleaflet, available online or at visitor centres. Your own gas cooker,
chemical toilet and water supply are obligatory.
Continuing south, the road passes
Ruatoria
(shop, petrol and general desolation) and
Te Puia Springs
(ditto). Along this stretch a 14km loop road offers a rewarding detour to
Waipiro Bay
.
Eleven kilometres south of Te Puia is
Tokomaru Bay
, perhaps the most interesting
spot on the entire route, with its broad beach framed by sweeping cliffs. The town has
weathered hard times since the freezing works closed in the 1950s, but it still sports sev-
eral attractions including good beginner surfing, swimming and
Te Puka Tavern
(
