Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Jemaa El Fna
The medina's central square means “Assembly
of the Dead”, a reference to a time when the
heads of executed criminals would be
displayed here on spikes. Although nothing as
gruesome is on view today, the square is still
populated with some extraordinary sights such
as snake charmers, monkey trainers and
colourfully-costumed water sellers. In spite of
government efforts to sanitize Jemaa El Fna
with neat paving and ornamental barrows, the
place remains endearingly chaotic.
!
Orange-Juice Stalls
The first to appear on the
square every morning are
these sellers of freshly-
squeezed orange juice. They
work in brightly painted iron
barrows fringing the square.
Top 10 Features
1 Orange-Juice Stalls
2 Snake Charmers
3 Café de France
4 Tooth Pullers
5 Herbalists
6 Porters
7 Monkey Trainers
8 Calèches
9 Water Sellers
0 Fortune Tellers
Dried fruit and nuts stall
It is worth paying
repeated visits at
different times of the
day, but in summer
months the square
goes uncharac-
teristically quiet
during the hottest
part of the afternoon.
Argana and the
Terrasses de
l'Alhambra are good
lunch spots
(see
p65)
and both
offer upper terrace
seating overlooking
the square.
@
Snake Charmers
The heat makes the
snakes unresponsive so
the charmers work on
tourists, cajoling them
into draping the lethargic
reptiles over their shoul-
ders for a photograph.
• Map J3
• Medina
•
Café de France: 0524
44 32 19; open 6am-
11pm daily; closes late
in summers; 2 restau-
rants; no credit cards
accepted
• Calèche rides: Place
Foucault, off Jemaa El
Fna; prices are listed
for specific tours, or
negotiate an hourly
rate of about 90 Dh
£
Café de France
There are several places
to sit and watch the
incessant entertainment of
the square over coffee but
the raffish air of the Café de
France
(left)
lends it an added
appeal and is a favourite with
tourists and locals alike.
8
For Jemaa El Fna by night,
see pp10-11
