WHERE TO GO - Hong Kong - page 50

There is still a rash of tacky girly clubs here, but also plenty of regular pubs and a smatter-
ing of smart cocktail and theme bars.
The Wan Chai waterfront is dominated by the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre $ [map] (HKCEC), which includes a huge exhibition space and two theatres. It
hosted the 1997 handover ceremony. Just outside on the Wan Chai promenade the giant
Golden Bauhinia statue commemorates the establishment of the HKSAR on 1 July 1997 -
a must-visit for every mainland tour group. On the other side of Gloucester Road is the
Hong Kong Arts Centre , with galleries, theatres and an arts cinema, and the Hong Kong
Academy for Performing Arts , a popular venue for visiting international stage shows.
Take a tram
The ancient tram system that travels along Des Voeux, Johnston and Hennessy
roads is the most leisurely and revealing way to see Hong Kong. With more than
32km (20 miles) of track, the jerky, electric double-deckers cover almost the en-
tire north coast of the island. Enter at the back of the tram, and try to get a seat in
the front of the upper deck for the best views of the colourful streets, always
crowded with shoppers and non-stop activity. You'll pass through Wan Chai,
where the world of Suzie Wong once existed, and travel all the way to the eastern
extremity of Shau Kei Wan. This former pirates' hang-out turned fishing village
and shipbuilding centre turned residential area is also home to the Museum of
Coastal Defence in the Lei Yue Mun Fort, built in 1887.
The western terminus is in Kennedy Town, a crowded neighbourhood named after
a 19th-century Hong Kong governor, Sir Arthur Kennedy. When you're ready to
get off the tram, just drop your HK$2 fare in the box at the front beside the driver
( www.hktramways.com ) .