Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Emerging from under the bridge, head farther west on Bankside to
Shakespeare's
Globe.
Possible detour: Die-hard theater fans may wish to detour inland to the site of
the Rose Theatre. I don't recommend it, since the Rose is rarely open (free, Sat only
10:00-17:00,
www.rosetheatre.org.uk
)
, and there's not much to see. But if I can't talk you
out of it, here's how to get there: Emerging from under the bridge, turn at the first left
(Bear Gardens Lane), then go left on Park Street. Go one block to the gray-granite mod-
ern building located on the site of the former Rose Theatre. Even if you don't go to the
site, you might enjoy knowing some background:
When the 2,200-seat Rose first raised its curtain in 1587, it signaled four decades of
phenomenal popularity (centered in Bankside) for a rapidly evolving form of entertain-
ment—theater. Soon there were four great theaters in the area: the Rose, the Hope, the
Swan, and the Globe. (Theatrical types can find the unimpressive plaque marking the site
of the original Globe Theatre—a half-block east of the Rose—and be as disappointed as
Sam Wanamaker, who was inspired to build the replica of Shakespeare's Globe. More on
the Globe when we arrive at the replica.)
It's thought that the young Will Shakespeare, recently arrived from the country, got
his start at the Rose tending theatergoers' horses (“What?” he said, “and give up show
business?!”). Soon, though, the struggling actor saw his first play
(Henry VI, Part I)
come
to life on the Rose stage.
Closer to the river was a theatrical venue called the Bear Gardens (only a plaque
marks the spot today). Bankside theaters presented everything from serious drama, to light
comedy, to vaudeville, to circus acts, to...animal fights. Bearbaiting was the most popular.
A bear was chained to a stake while a pack of dogs (mastiffs) attacked, and spectators bet
on the winner. The bears, often with teeth filed down or jaws wired shut, fought back with
their paws, sweeping dogs into the crowd. Now, that's entertainment.
Shakespeare's Globe
All the world's a stage,
And all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances,
And one man, in his time, plays many parts.
—As You Like It
