Basics - Rough Guide to Fiji - page 43

YAQONA
Also known as kava or more simply “grog”, yaqona is Fiji's national drink. Made from the
pounded roots of the pepper plant ( piper methysticum ), it has an earthy, rather bitter taste
and resembles muddy water. Although it takes some getting used to, yaqona (pronounced
“yan-go-na”) is refreshing and has a relaxing effect upon the body. Drunk socially by Fiji-
ans and Fiji-Indians, it is also used in formal situations and will be offered as part of a ce-
remony to welcome you to a village.
The ritual begins with the presentation of your sevusevu , or introductory gift (see Village
etiquette ), accompanied by a speech by the village herald. After this, the yaqona roots are
mixed with water in a carved bowl ( tanoa ) while all participants sit in a circle on the floor.
Once ready, the drink is served in a half coconut shell known as a bilo . It is presented first
to the chief and then to any guests. When it's your turn to drink, cup your hands, clap once
and say “ bula ” (cheers); you then take the cup and down the contents in one go. Return
the cup to the bearer and clap your hands again three times, proclaiming “ maca ”, a signal
of gratification. The formal ceremony ends when the tanoa bowl is empty, indicated by a
round of clapping. Throughout the ceremony it's considered bad manners to talk, turn your
back on the chief or to point your feet towards the tanoa bowl.
After a few cups of yaqona you may notice your tongue and lips become numb, a tempor-
ary effect caused by the active ingredients in the root. Consuming yaqona in large quantit-
ies can case drowsiness , so avoid driving or going swimming immediately after drinking
it.
Beer
The four labels of local beer are passable, all highly carbonated lagers brewed in Suva under
a subsidiary of the Australian Fosters Group. Fiji Bitter (4.6 percent alcohol) is the most pal-
atable. Lighter in taste but of similar strength are Fiji Gold, Fiji Export and Fiji Premium, all
more popular with tourists. Fiji Bitter comes in two sizes: 375ml “stubbies” and the larger
750ml “long necks”, popular with the locals; Gold comes in stubbies only, Export in cans
and Premium in clear bottles. In the shops a stubby costs around F$3, in the local bars it's
anything from F$3.50 to F$6 and in the resorts it starts at F$6. Draft Fiji Bitter can be found
at the more upmarket bars and resorts and is infinitely better tasting. Imported bottled beer,
mostly lagers from Australia, cost a few dollars more. If you thirst for a draught Guinness
you'll need to head to O'Reillys Bar in Suva.
Rum and other spirits
Rum , brewed from local sugar in Lautoka, is popularly referred to as “wash down”, drunk
after a yaqona session to sweeten the palate. The smooth, mellow Bounty Dark Rum brand
has won several international awards and costs around F$40 for a 750ml bottle. Both dark