Basics - Rough Guide to Fiji - page 33

For an overview of air routes see the map ; details of individual flights are given throughout
the Guide.
By passenger ferry and cargo boat
The busy tourist destinations of the Mamanucas are graced by fast passenger catamarans
offering fabulous views from their upper decks and enclosed air-conditioned seating on the
lower levels. By contrast, the bulky and ageing vehicle and passenger ferries visiting Kada-
vu, Vanua Levu, Taveuni and the Lomaiviti Group suffer particularly from sea swell, and of-
ten meander around an erratic schedule. Christmas is especially hectic, with over-laden boats
common during the summer school break from early December to late January, while rough
seas often disrupt schedules between December and April. While the service to the Yasawas
is fairly pricey (F$147 for 5 days' travel), it only costs around F$80 for the long trip from
Lautoka to Savusavu.
Cargo boats have been plying Fiji's waters since the pioneering days of the late nineteenth
century, bringing in trade, exporting copra and connecting the people with the outside world.
It is still common practice for passengers to join cargo boats supplying the outer islands, usu-
ally sitting and sleeping on deck amidst barrels of oil, boxes of tinned meat and bunches of
bananas. For those with a little time and a spirit of adventure, it's a chance to rub shoulders
with Fijians from all walks of life, and it's cheap and cheerful, too: the route from Suva to
Kadavu, for example, will set you back around F$50 one way.
For an overview of sea routes see the map ; details of individual ferries and cargo ships are
given throughout the Guide.
By bus
With no rail service and few people owning cars, buses are the only practical way for the pub-
lic to affordably get around the large islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. Both islands have
reliable, frequent and exceptionally cheap bus services operating out of all town centres.
Buses usually have open-sided windows and visit almost every rural location imaginable, be
it along a dirt road, up a steep mountain or over narrow wooden planks bridging rivers and
stopping when requested.
Express buses run between major towns on Viti Levu . The five-hour journey between Nadi
and Suva costs around F$20. Most buses are rather dated with hard cushioned seats and slid-
ing windows but the tourist operator Coral Sun runs a modern air-conditioned soft-seated
coach for double the price. You should also consider the air-conditioned tourist bus operator
Feejee Experience which circumnavigates the main island on a four-day adventure journey.
A very limited bus schedule operates on Ovalau and Taveuni , mostly for shuttling kids back
and forth from school, but on all other islands buses are non-existent.