THE GUIDE - Rough Guide to Fiji - page 256

Lakeba
Lakeba , almost circular in shape with a diameter of 8km, has the region's only airstrip (con-
nected by weekly flights from Nausori) and is the main link with the Fijian mainland. Before
the Tongan conquest of Lau, Lakeba was the dominant power in the group, home to the Tui
Nayau or “Lord of Nayau”, which refers to a small island to the north. The most recent Tui
Nayau was former prime minister Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara, who also held the Tui Lau title
created by Tongan prince Ma'afu.
Tubou
The island's main village is Tubou , located on the southwest coast. With a population of
around six hundred, it forms Lakeba's heartbeat and is home to the government and pro-
vincial headquarters, hospital, post office, several stores and jetty. The village has a strong
Tongan influence, with people living in rounded thatch bures and wearing ta'avala (woven
mats) around the waist. The graveyard behind the provincial office has a small stepped plat-
form where the Tongan prince and warrior Ma'afu lies buried.
The rest of the island
A well-maintained dirt road hugs much of the flat coastline , making it easy to get around
by foot. Several impressive caves with stalactites and stalagmites can be explored including
Delaiono, south of Tubou on the southern tip, and Oso Nabukete along the uplifted west
coast. Slightly inland, close to the airstrip, are more caves, originally used as refuges in times
of war or for banishment. In the centre of the island is the largest hillfort in Fiji. Situated
on top of the 360m-high Ketekete Peak, the fort was capable of sheltering over 2500 people,
although today most of its stone walls lie buried in the undergrowth. Off the east coast is a
myriad of tiny islands ideal for exploring by punt - you should be able to hire a boatman from
the village of Nukunuku for around F$40 an hour.
ACCOMMODATION: LAKEBA
Homestay accommodation The Lau Provincial Council in Tubou ( 822 0329) can help ar-
range homestay accommodation. You should present a sevusevu (see Yaqona ) when you ar-
rive as your traditional request for assistance. Expect to pay F$50 per person per night for
board and meals.
Fulaga
The crescent-shaped limestone island of Fulaga lies in the distant southern part of the group,
100km south of Lakeba. The low-lying, three-tiered island has an unusual flooded basin in
its centre which is littered with eroded mushroom-shaped rocks and cove beaches. There are
three small villages on Fulaga but no accommodation. There is no accommodation on Fulaga,
but you can visit by cargo ship .
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