THE GUIDE - Rough Guide to Fiji - page 160

Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park
Visitor centre Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm, Sat & Sun 8am-4pm • F$10 • 652 0243
Two kilometres east of Sigatoka Town, the Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park makes for
an inspiring outing. The dunes cover an area of 650 hectares, stretching for 3km and petering
out to a sand spit at the mouth of the Sigatoka River. In places they rise to 80m with fantastic
views of the crashing surf along the beach.
The visitor centre has an informative display highlighting the fragile ecology and archeolo-
gical importance of the region, and can also provide guides. There are two designated walk-
ing trails from here: an hour's stroll through forest to the beach; and a two- to three-hour
walk which takes you along the ridge of the dunes. Along the beachfront you'll find plenty
of driftwood and, if you look carefully, you'll come across small shards of Lapita pottery ,
evidence of human settlement from over two thousand years ago. Unusually large human
bones are regularly found here, suggesting that the fish diet and lifestyle of the early settlers
was very healthy. Circling back round to the forest you'll encounter “treehuggers” sculpted
from dead wood, symbolizing the need to protect the environment, and there's a clearing just
beyond noisy with flying foxes.
Good surfing can be had around the Sigatoka River mouth at the southern end of the beach,
although the sea can be ferocious at times with strong currents - locals can advise the safest
entry points for both surfers and swimmers. You can rent boards at the Sand Dunes Inn .
FIJIAN POTTERY
The single most important item identifying the migration of people across the South Pacific
is pottery . For Fijians, the trail commences with the introduction of Lapita pottery , a dis-
tinct form of geometric patterning impressed on clay pots by finely saw-toothed blades pri-
or to firing. The oldest examples of Lapita, dating back to 1220 BC, were found at Boure-
wa Beach on the southeast coast of Viti Levu. The highest concentration of the pottery is
found at Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park .
In pre-European times, pottery formed the basis of Fijian homewares, with clay vessels
used as water containers, yaqona bowls, and pots for baking, steaming and frying food.
Today, potters around the islands retain traditional motifs, some using woven mats to create
patterns, others using carved paddles or leaves. The potters, almost exclusively women ,
knead the clay with fine sand using the heels of the feet, beat it into shape using a wooden
mallet, crudely fire the pots and then glaze them for waterproofing by rubbing over with
the hot wax-like gum of the dakua tree which was also used as a candle in pre-European
times.