Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
smaller, grayer streak, tail flat behind, nipping at her heels. I'm standing there at the Eiel-
son Visitor Center, the Denali equivalent of Grand Central Station, my mouth open as I
watch a wolf chase a caribou up the Thorofare River bed. The gray streak chases the cari-
bou up and over a rise, never very far away from those sharp, tiny hooves. Will the cari-
bou get away? Will the wolf's pups eat tonight?
Johann honks the horn. I'm going to be left behind if I don't get a move on. Reluctantly,
I down glasses and climb in. In the National Park Service brochure on Denali it says, and I
quote, “If you are lucky enough to see a wolf, consider it a rare and privileged experien-
ce.” I still can't believe we got that lucky, and on our last day and on our way out of the
park. “Did I see what I just thought I saw?” I say to no one in particular. Everyone assures
me I have. It's very quiet in the bus for a few miles.
But wait. There is, unbelievably, more. Between Eielson and Sable Pass we see six
more grizzly bears, which Johann says is a record for the bus back. I believe him. “We've
got to go,” he says after a stop to watch a blond grizzly browse not fifteen feet from my
window, “or people are going to miss the train.”
Denali National Park and Preserve fades in the rear view mirror, but not in my memory.
I'm going back, and I'm bringing friends.
