Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Day 2. Between Caribou Creek and East Creek, the trail gradually slopes upward
through a dense forest. Much of the time it feels like you're in the jungles of Borneo.
That was the worst day. The straps of my new pack chafed my shoulders. It was drizz-
ling and rain slid down the back of my neck and pooled at the base of my spine. Wet
branches slapped me in the face. No wildlife, no other hikers, just us and the narrow trail
in front of us, which never went anywhere but up. And my hiking boots seemed to have
shrunk. My blisters had blisters. I was very happy to see the cabin that afternoon.
I cooked that night, something out of an aluminum bag bought off the wall at REI, and
Hershey bars for dessert. Or maybe it was M&Ms. Whichever was lighter.
Second night, fourteen-point-four miles from the trailhead.
Day 3 . The climb into Resurrection Pass is truly spectacular, and it didn't hurt that there
was blue sky waiting for us when we got there. The trees thin out and there you are with
Kenai Mountains rising all around, sharp wedges of earth and stone that maintain a lofty,
noli me tangere demeanor. We could look, we could admire, but we weren't encouraged to
be overfamiliar. Blueberries and crowberries and watermelon berries carpeted the tundra,
forget-me-nots and wild geraniums lined the trail.
At Devil's Pass there is an access trail down to another trailhead on the Seward High-
way, and when Linda said, “Let's take a walk!” after dinner I actually went along. She
found us a field of pale orange columbine, lying demurely in a gentle slope where two
mountains met. Fat, furry marmots whistled at us from the hillside. An eagle soared over-
head, gliding, playing tag with thermals.
No buses belching exhaust. No jet planes thundering overhead. Bright patches of
flowers, wildlife wandering unafraid over a panorama so beautiful as to stop the heart, and
above all, a peace that can never be had within the confines of town living. I had forgot-
ten.
The Resurrection Trail was reminding me. I was afraid that I was beginning to enjoy
myself.
Third night. Twenty-one-point-four miles from the trailhead.
Day 4 . The trail from Devil's Pass is all downhill. The first mile was marvelous. More
blueberries, incredible views, a light, heavenly breeze blowing in our faces. The next six-
point-four miles were sheer hell, because the black flies came out in force and ate us alive.
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