Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There is a story, probably apocryphal but no less true for that, about a vegetarian who
moved to the Bush and starved to death in a month. Anchorage won't be a problem for ve-
getarians but the Bush could be. Alert your hosts before you get on the plane, don't wait
until you're offered a moose steak or the large claw off a King crab and have to turn them
down.
Or, alternatively, you can take me along. I'd be happy to scarf up your leavings.
Speaking of food. During your sojourn, you may be offered maktak (whale blubber).
You may be offered blood stew (just what it sounds like). You may be offered Eskimo ice
cream (seal fat mixed with sugar and blueberries). These are delicacies; it is a compliment
to you that they offer their best. Alaska Natives have thrived on this diet for thousands of
years; one bite to be polite won't kill you. (If you are offered alodiks (fry bread) and turn
it down, you're too dumb to travel here. Same goes for smoke fish, hard smoked, the real
stuff, the kind that makes your jaw ache for a week and your house stink for a month af-
terward.)
If such a situation arises during your stay, as the guest you will probably be served first.
If you really can't bear the thought of putting any of the above into your mouth, my friend
Dee suggests this: accept the serving, find the oldest person in the room and offer it to
them. This will show that you have good manners, if not good taste, and that you respect
your elders. Then quickly grab a plate and fill it yourself.
They don't call the Gulf of Alaska the Mother of Storms for nothing. Getting
weathered-in in remote sites is a regular occurrence for the people who live here. Do what
you should do when you travel anyway: pack extra underwear and a toothbrush into your
carry on, and be prepared to learn how to play pinochle until the whiteout is over.
Whenever I fly into the Bush, I pack my own survival kit. In summer it's a bottle of wa-
ter, a box of waterproof matches, mosquito repellent and a Swiss Army knife. In winter
it's a bottle of water, a box of waterproof matches, a Swiss Army knife, parka, boots, and
a pack of fire starters. Small aircraft operators by law are required to carry similar kits in
each of their planes. Make the pilot show it to you. This might ruffle her feathers, but too
bad, it's your ass if the plane goes down and the emergency locator beacon malfunctions,
or Search and Rescue is late getting there.
