Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of course, for in its descendants: Moez, and the thousands like him. Because Nubia was
once at the heart of the world, and the Romans considered it the gateway to all of Africa's
treasures.
The Roman Emperor Nero is usually remembered for his despotic rule, murdering his
mother, persecuting the first Christians - and, of course, allowing Rome to burn. What is
less well known is that he spent much of his reign, from 54-68AD, promoting trade, ex-
ploration, and the arts. Egypt had been a part of the Roman Empire since the death of Cleo-
patra in 30BC, becoming an important centre of produce and trade. To the south, where we
now stood, lay the Kingdom of Kush, accessible by the great River Nile, whose headwa-
ters rose in some mythical south. It was the Nubians of Kush who were seen as the keep-
ers of the Nile, guarding all the wealth of inland Africa. Rome knew this well, and often
sent armies to raid Nubia and pillage the land of its gold, iron and slaves. In retaliation,
the Nubians would often attack the towns of upper Egypt. Nubia and Rome, it seems, both
considered themselves the natural inheritors of Egyptian civilisation, and were prepared to
go to war over such matters.
It was Nero, though, who saw the value in Africa and, by negotiating a problematic
peace with the Nubians, was able to indulge his other passion: exploration. Nero was
clearly fascinated by the Nile and especially the mystery surrounding its source - so much
so that he ordered a party of Praetorian soldiers under the command of a tribune and two
centurions to go and look for it. No Europeans had ever ventured this far south before and
it was a bold expedition. Not only did they travel further than any Roman had ever gone -
crossing, as I was about to (in the opposite direction), a vast chunk of the Sahara Desert -
they also came face to face with their recent enemies, the Nubians. What they encountered
must have been a pleasant surprise - for, after following the Nile through the Kushitic
Kingdom for the best part of a thousand miles, they came across the splendid capital of
Meroe, over whose remnants I now looked. Far from being barbaric savages, as some Ro-
mans believed, they found the Nubians rich and developed. Meroe had a flourishing metal-
working industry, and its pottery was famous throughout the ancient world. The Nubians
also dealt in slaves, 'exotic' animals, and textiles made from cotton - a sure indicator that
agriculture and industry were then more widespread across the Nile than they are now.
'They must have been awed by these pyramids, too,' I said to Moez, who - despite hav-
ing been here a hundred times before - was still agog.
Awad and Ahmad had finally caught up, dragging Gordon, Speke and Burton with them.
In spite of the magic all around, neither of them seemed to be interested in the ancient
structures.
'Do they even know what these are?' I asked.
Moez asked them, but Ahmad only muttered back: 'Piles of stones.'
'Don't they care?'
