Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
private en-suite facilities and decks with relaxing bush views. Run by APT, independent
travellers may find themselves squeezed in among tour groups. Tariff includes breakfast
and dinner.
SOUTH OF ALICE SPRINGS
TOP OF CHAPTER
Old South Road
The Old South Road, which runs close to the old
Ghan
railway line, is pretty rough and
really requires a 4WD. It's only 39km from Alice Springs to Ewaninga, where prehistor-
ic Aboriginal petroglyphs are carved into sandstone. The rock carvings found here and at
N'Dhala Gorge are thought to have been made by Aboriginal people who lived here be-
fore those currently in the region, between 1000 and 5000 years ago.
The eerie, sandstone
Chambers Pillar
, southwest of Maryvale Station, towers 50m
above the surrounding plain and is carved with the names and visit dates of early ex-
plorers − and, unfortunately, some much less worthy modern-day graffiti. To the Abori-
ginal people of the area, Chambers Pillar is the remains of Itirkawara, a powerful gecko
ancestor. Most photogenic at sunset and sunrise, it's best to stay overnight at the
camp-
ing ground
(adult/child $3.30/1.65)
. It's 160km from Alice Springs, and a 4WD is re-
quired for the last 44km from the turn-off at Maryvale Station.
Back on the main track south, you eventually arrive at Finke (Aputula), a small Abori-
ginal community 230km from Alice Springs. When the old
Ghan
was running, Finke
was a thriving town; these days it seems to have drifted into a permanent torpor, except
when the
Finke Desert Race
is staged. Fuel is sold at the
Aputula Store
(
08-8956
0968;
9am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
, which is also an outlet for local artists'
work.
From Finke, you can turn west along the Goyder Stock Rte to join the Stuart Hwy at
Kulgera (150km), or east to Old Andado station on the edge of the Simpson Desert
(120km). Just 21km west of Finke, and 12km north of the road along a signposted track,
is the Lambert Centre. The point marks Australia's geographical centre and features a
5m-high version of the flagpole found on top of Parliament House in Canberra.
