Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cobourg Peninsula
The wilderness of this peninsula forms the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park
( www.nretas.nt.gov.au/national-parks-and-reserves/parks/find/gariggunak ) which includes the
surrounding sea. In the turquoise water you'll likely see dolphins and turtles, and − what
most people come for − a threadfin salmon thrashing on the end of your line.
On the shores of Port Essington are the stone ruins and headstones from Victoria set-
tlement − Britain's 1838 attempt to establish a military outpost.
At Algarlarlgarl (Black Point) there's a ranger station (
08-8979 0244) with a visit-
or information and cultural centre, and the Garig Store (
08-8979 0455;
4-6pm Mon-
Sat) , which sells basic provisions, ice and camping gas.
Two permits are required to visit the Cobourg Peninsula: for a transit pass ($12.10 per
vehicle) to drive through Aboriginal land contact the Northern Land Council ( Click here
); for permission to stay overnight in the national park contact the Cobourg Peninsula
Sanctuary & Marine Park Board ( 08-8999 4814; www.nretas.nt.gov.au/national-parks-
and-reserves/parks/find/gariggunak ) . The overnight fee is $232.10 per vehicle, which cov-
ers up to five people for seven days and includes camping and transit pass.
There are two camping grounds in the park with shower, toilet, BBQs and limited bore
water; generators are allowed in one area. Camping fees (per person per day $16.50) are
covered by your vehicle permit, but if you fly in you'll have to pay them. Other accom-
modation is available in pricey fishing resorts.
8 Getting There & Away
The quickest route here is by private charter flight, which can be arranged by accommod-
ation providers. The track to Cobourg starts at Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) and is accessible
by 4WD vehicles only from May to October. The 270km drive to Black Point from the
East Alligator River takes about four hours.
Eastern Arnhem Land
The wildly beautiful coast and country of Eastern Arnhem Land ( www.ealta.org ) is really
off the beaten track. About 4000 people live in the region's main settlement, Nhulunbuy,
built to service the bauxite mine here. The 1963 plans to establish a manganese mine
were hotly protested by the traditional owners, the Yolngu people; though mining pro-
ceeded, the case became an important step in establishing land rights. Some of the coun-
try's most respected art comes out of this region too, including bark paintings, carved
mimi figures, yidaki (didgeridoo), woven baskets and mats, and jewellery.
 
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