Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
able sanity are your only companions as you put your foot down and careen towards the
setting sun.
Turn off the highway at Penong (population 200), and follow the 20km dirt road to
Point Sinclair and Cactus Beach , which has three of Australia's most famous surf
breaks. Caves is a wicked right-hand break for experienced surfers (locals don't take too
kindly to tourists dropping in). There's bush camping (per person from $10) on private
property close to the breaks; BYO drinking water.
The viewing platforms at Head of Bight ( 0407 832 297; www.yalata.org ; adult $20,
child under/over 15 free/$15; 8am-5pm) overlook a major southern-right-whale breeding
ground. Whales migrate here from Antarctica, and you can see them cavorting from May
to October. The breeding area is protected by the Great Australian Bight Common-
wealth Marine Reserve ( www.environment.gov.au/coasts/mpa/gab ) , the world's second-
largest marine park after the Great Barrier Reef.
Head of Bight is a part of the Yalata Indigenous Protected Area. Pay your entry fee
and get the latest whale information from the White Well Ranger Station on the way in to
the viewing area. The signposted turn-off is 14km east of the Nullarbor Roadhouse.
While you're in the Head of Bight area, you can also check out Murrawijinie Cave , a
large overhang behind the Nullarbor Roadhouse, and have a look at the signposted
coastal lookouts along the top of the 80m-high Bunda Cliffs .
If you're continuing west into WA, dump all fruit, vegetables, cheese and plants at
Border Village (as per quarantine regulations), and watch out for animals if you're driv-
ing at night. Note that if you're driving east rather than west, SA's quarantine check point
isn't until Ceduna.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Penong Caravan Park CARAVAN PARK $
( 08-8625 1111; www.nullarbornet.com.au/towns/penong.html ; 5 Stiggants Rd, Penong; un-
powered/powered sites $23/27, onsite vans/cabins from $50/78; ) A short hop from Ce-
duna, this well-kept park is rated by some travellers as the best on the Nullarbor. The
cabins are in good shape, and the camping area has a laundry and barbecues. Extra
charge for linen.
Fowlers Bay Caravan Park CARAVAN PARK $
( 08-8625 6143; www.nullarbornet.com.au/towns/fowlersBay.html ; Fowlers Bay; powered sites
$25, units $65-75;
) There's basic accommodation, a shop and takeaway food in this al-
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