Adelaide & South Australia - Central Australia: Adelaide to Darwin - page 193

Coorong National Park
The amazing Coorong National Park ( www.environment.sa.gov.au ) is a fecund lagoon land-
scape curving along the coast for 145km from Lake Alexandrina towards Kingston SE. A
complex series of soaks and salt pans, it's separated from the sea by the chunky dunes of
the Younghusband Peninsula . More than 200 species of waterbirds live here. Storm
Boy, an endearing film about a young boy's friendship with a pelican (based on the novel
by Colin Thiele), was filmed here.
In the 1800s the bountiful resources of the Coorong supported a large Ngarrindjeri
population. The Ngarrindjeri are still closely connected to the Coorong, and many still
live here.
At the edge of the Coorong on Lake Albert (a large arm of Lake Alexandrina), Men-
ingie (population 900) was established as a minor port in 1866. These 'lower lakes' have
returned to life recently, in the wake of the 2011 Murray River floods. Prior to this, the
lakes were shrinking rapidly, and the entire Coorong ecosystem was under threat through
salination and species decline. A momentary reprieve from climate change? Time will
tell...
The Princes Hwy scuttles through the park, but you can't see much from the road. In-
stead, take the 13km, unsealed Coorong Scenic Drive . Signed as Seven Mile Rd, it
starts 10km southwest of Meningie off the Narrung Rd, and takes you right into the land-
scape, with its stinky lagoons, sea mists, fishing shanties, pelicans and wild emus. The
road rejoins the Princes Hwy, 10km south of Meningie.
It looks a little shabby, but Camp Coorong ( 08-8575 1557; www.ngarrindjeri.net ;
Princes Hwy; museum admission per car $5; vary) - run by the Ngarrindjeri Lands and Pro-
gress Association and 10km south of Meningie - has a museum and is a great place to
learn about Ngarrindjeri culture. Call ahead to make sure it's open.
With a 4WD you can access Ninety Mile Beach , a well-known surf-fishing spot. The
easiest ocean access point is 3km off the Princes Hwy at 42 Mile Crossing, 19km south
of Salt Creek.
On the southern fringe of the Coorong is Kingston SE ( www.kingstonse.com.au ) with a
population of 2230. The town is a hotbed of crayfishing, and hosts the weeklong Lob-
sterfest in May. One of Australia's 'big' tourist attractions, the anatomically correct
Larry the Lobster is a famed resident.
For a watery perspective, try Spirit of the Coorong ( Click here ) in Goolwa, which runs
ecocruises into the national park, including lunch and a guided walk. Adelaide bus con-
nections available.