Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
quality takeaway of Coopers-battered flathead and chips and head back to the sand. At
night things get a little classier, with à-la-carte mains that focus on independent SA pro-
ducers.
Cockles on North
CAFE, MODERN AUSTRALIAN $
(
08-8554 3187;
www.cocklescafe.com.au
;
4/33 North Tce; mains $10-19;
7.30am-4pm;
)
A bright, breezy, open-sided foodie haunt with a huge deck overlooking the main strip.
Expect good coffee, all-day breakfasts, snazzy desserts and mains such as felafels, corn
fritters with avocado and smoked salmon, and king-prawn pasta.
8
Getting There & Away
and Port Elliot ($22, two hours, one to three daily), via Victor Harbor and continuing to
Goolwa.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Goolwa
POP 6500
Much more low-key and elegant than kissing-cousin Victor Harbor, Goolwa is an unas-
suming town where the rejuvenated Murray River empties into the sea. Beyond the dunes
is a fantastic beach with ranks of breakers rolling in from the ocean, same as it ever
tracts boating enthusiasts here in February in odd-numbered years.
BUILDING BRIDGES (NOT…)
First proposed in 1988, construction of the Hindmarsh Island Bridge at Goolwa was
opposed by Ngarrindjeri women who had concerns about the spiritual and cultural
significance of the site. A series of court battles ensued, pitting Aboriginal beliefs
against development, culminating in a royal commission (1995) that ruled that the
claims of Aboriginal 'secret women's business' were fabricated. Further court ap-
peals were launched, and in August 2001 the Federal Court overturned the royal
commission, finding the Ngarrindjeri claims to be legitimate. Unfortunately, this
vindication came five months after the bridge was officially opened. The decade-
long furore was a step backwards for reconciliation; the bridge remains a source of
contention.
