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sphere. Empty '50s villas and workers' quarters line the streets, and the local shop
(closed) has signs advertising soft drinks they don't make anymore. The jetty (re-
cently rebuilt; www.rapidbayjetty.org ) has become a popular fishing and diving
site.
Rapid Bay was also the site of Adelaide founder Colonel William Light's first land-
ing in SA in 1836, in his ship the Rapid. There's a stone down by the shore with 'WL
1836' carved into it.
4 Sleeping & Eating
o Port Elliot Beach House YHA HOSTEL $
( 08-8554 1885; www.yha.com.au ; 13 The Strand; dm/d/f from $28/90/125; ) Built in
1910 (the old Arcadia Hotel), this sandstone beauty has sweeping views across the Port
Elliot coastline. If you can drag your eyes away from the view, you'll find polished floor-
boards and contemporary colours splashed around. It's a classy fit-out, and the only
backpackers on the Fleurieu Peninsula. Surf lessons are almost mandatory, and the Fly-
ing Fish Cafe is 200m away.
Port Elliot Holiday Park CARAVAN PARK $
( 08-8554 2134; www.portelliotholidaypark.com.au ; Port Elliot Rd; powered sites/cabins/units/
cottages from $33/90/115/150; ) In an unbeatable position behind the Horseshoe
Bay dunes (it can be a touch windy), this 5-hectare park, with lush grass and healthy-
looking trees has all the requisite facilities, including a shiny camp kitchen and all-
weather barbecue area. Prices plummet in winter.
Royal Family Hotel PUB $
( 08-8554 2219; www.royalfamilyhotel.com.au ; 32 North Tce; s/d $50/65) It's doubtful that
Prince Chuck has ever stayed here, but if he did he'd find surprisingly decent pub rooms
with clean shared bathrooms, a TV lounge and balcony over the main street. Downstairs
the bistro serves counter meals fit for a king (mains $16 to $30, serving noon to 2pm and
6pm to 8pm).
Flying Fish Cafe MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
( 08-8554 3504; www.flyingfishcafe.com.au ; 1 The Foreshore; takeaways $10-15, mains $20-40;
9-11am Sat & Sun, noon-3pm daily, 6-9pm Fri & Sat) Sit down for lunch and you'll find
yourself here all day − the views of Horseshoe Bay are sublime. Otherwise grab some
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