Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pressway Bus Timetable comes in handy (free, available at some bus stations or online at
www.buseireann.ie , bus info tel. 01/836-6111).
Even though buses are slower than trains (by about a third), they're also much cheaper.
Round-trip bus tickets usually cost less than two one-way fares (for example, Tralee to
Dingle is €12.30 one-way and €20 round-trip). The Irish distinguish between “buses” (for
in-city travel with lots of stops) and “coaches” (long-distance cross-country runs).
You may need to do some trips partly by train. For instance, if you're going from Dub-
lin to Dingle without a car, you'll need to take a train to Tralee and catch a bus from there.
Similarly, to go from Dublin to Kinsale without a car, take a train to Cork and then a bus;
and from Dublin to Doolin, take a train to Galway or Ennis and then a bus.
If you're traveling up and down Ireland's west coast, buses are best (or a combination
of buses and trains); relying on rail only here is too time-consuming. Note that some rural
coach stops are by “request only.” This means the coach will drive right on by unless you
flag it down by extending your arm straight out, with your palm open.
Bus stations are normally at or near train stations. Before you board the coach, you'll
be asked to stow your bag in the large compartment beneath the passenger cabin. Try to
get a window seat on the side of the coach where the luggage is unloaded, and be alert
whenever the bus stops to take on or let off passengers. Otherwise, someone may—likely
accidentally—take your bag. Many bags look alike; decorate yours distinctively. On some
Irish buses, sports games are piped throughout the bus; have earplugs handy if you prefer
a quieter ride.
Some companies offer backpacker's bus circuits. These hop-on, hop-off bus circuits
take mostly youth hostelers around the country cheaply and easily, with the assumption
that they'll be sleeping in hostels along the way. For example, Paddy Wagon cuts Ireland
in half and offers three- to six-day “tours” of each half (north and south) that can be com-
bined into one whole tour connecting Dublin, Cork, Killarney, Dingle, Galway, Westport,
Donegal, Derry, and Belfast (May-Oct, 5 Beresford Palace, Dublin, tel. 01/823-0822, toll-
free from UK tel. 0800-783-4191, www.paddywagontours.com ) . They also offer day tours
to the Giant's Causeway, Belfast, Cliffs of Moher, Glendalough, or Kilkenny.
StudentscanusetheirISIC(studentcard, www.isic.org ) togetdiscountsoncross-coun-
try coaches (up to 50 percent). Children 5-15 pay half-price on trains, and wee ones under
age 5 go free.
Renting a Car
Travelers from North America are understandably hesitant when they consider driving in
Ireland. The Irish government statistics say that 10percent ofall car accidents onIrish soil
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