Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Orientation to County Donegal
Self-Guided Driving Tour
Map: County Donegal Loop Trip
The town of Derry (or Londonderry to Unionists) is the mecca of Ulster Unionism. When
Ireland was being divvied up, the River Foyle was the logical border between the North
and the Republic. But, for sentimental and economic reasons, the North kept Derry, which
is on the Republic's side of the river. Consequently, this predominantly Catholic city has
been much contested throughout the Troubles.
Even its name is disputed. While most of its population and its city council call it
“Derry,” some maps, road signs, and all train schedules in the UK use “Londonderry,” the
name on its 1662 royal charter and the one favored by Unionists. I once asked a Northern
Ireland rail employee for a ticket to “Derry”; he replied that there was no such place, but
he would sell me one to “Londonderry.”
Still, the conflict is only one dimension of Derry; this pivotal city has a more diverse
history and a prettier setting than Belfast. Derry was a vibrant city back when Belfast was
just a mudflat. With a quarter of Belfast's population (85,000), Derry feels more welcom-
ing and manageable to visitors.
County Donegal, to the west of Derry, is about as far-flung as Ireland gets. A forgotten
economic backwater (part of the Republic but riding piggyback on the North), it lacks
blockbuster museums orsights. But a visit here is more about the journey,and adventurous
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