Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nationalists —and the more hardline, working-class Republicans —want a united and
independent Ireland ruled by Dublin. The Social Democratic Labor Party (SDLP), foun-
ded by Nobel Peace Prize co-winner John Hume and currently led by Alasdair McDonnell,
is the moderate political party representing Nationalist views. Sinn Fein (shin fayn), led
by Gerry Adams, takes a harder stance in defense of Nationalism. The Irish Republic-
an Army (IRA) is the Nationalist paramilitary organization (linked with Sinn Fein) men-
tioned most often in the press and in graffiti.
To gain more insight into the complexity of the Troubles, see the University of Ulster's
informative and evenhanded Conflict Archive at http://cain.ulst.ac.uk/index.html .
Safety
A generation ago, Northern Ireland was a sadly contorted corner of the world. On my first
visit, I remember thinking that even the name of this region sounded painful (“Ulster”
sounded to me like a combination of “ulcer” and “blister”).
Today tourists in Northern Ireland are no longer considered courageous (or reckless).
When locals spot you with a map and a lost look on your face, they're likely to ask, “Wot
yer lookin fer?” in their distinctive Northern accent. They're not suspicious of you, but
rather trying to help you find your way. You're safer in Belfast than in many other UK cit-
ies—and far safer, statistically, than in most major US cities. You have to look for trouble
to find it here. Just don't seek out spit-and-sawdust pubs in working-class neighborhoods
and spew simplistic and naive opinions about sensitive local topics.
Tourists notice the tension mainly during the “marching season” (Easter-Aug, peaking
in early July). July 12—“the Twelfth”—is traditionally the most confrontational day of
the year in the North, when proud Protestant Unionist Orangemen march to celebrate
their Britishness and their separate identity from the Republic of Ireland (often through
staunchly Nationalist Catholic neighborhoods). Lay low if you stumble onto any big
Orange parades.
Northern Ireland Is a Different Country
The border is almost invisible. But when you leave the Republic of Ireland and enter
Northern Ireland, you are crossing an international border. Although you don't have to
flash your passport, you do change stamps, phone cards, and money. Gas is a little cheaper
in the Republic of Ireland than in Northern Ireland (so fill up before crossing the border).
Meanwhile, groceries and dental procedures are cheaper in the North (put off that root
canal until you hit Belfast). These price differences create a lively daily shopping trade for
those living near the border.
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