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even industrial peat cuts that were begun after World War II to fuel power stations. But in
the past few decades, bogs have been recognized as a rare habitat, and conservation efforts
have been encouraged. These days, the sweet, nostalgic smell of burning peat is becoming
increasingly rare.
• Continue west on N-59. The road soon crosses a shallow lake, with a great view of
Kylemore Abbey to the right. But don't stop here—you'll get a better photo from the park-
ing lot, a few hundred yards ahead. Pull into the lot and take a few minutes to enjoy the
view (gate closes at 18:00).
Kylemore Abbey
This Neo-Gothic country house was built by the wealthy English businessman Mitchell
Henry in the 1860s, after he and his wife had honeymooned in the area. Now they are both
buried on the grounds. After World War I, refugee Benedictine nuns from Ypres, Belgium,
took it over and ran it as an exclusive girls' boarding school—which peaked at 200 stu-
dents—until it closed in 2010. The nuns still live upstairs, but you can visit the half-dozen
open downstairs rooms that display the Henry family's cushy lifestyle (with a 15-minute
audiovisual presentation). For me, the best thing about the abbey is the view of it from the
lakeshore. But garden enthusiasts will seek out the extensive walled Victorian gardens.
From the abbey, the gardens are a one-mile, level walk or quick shuttle bus ride (runs
every 15 minutes). Hourly tours of the abbey and gardens are so-so; it's best just to enjoy
the setting.
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