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The ruined church next door has a couple of 12th-century crosses, but isn't much to
see. Mass is still held in the church, which claims the pope as its bishop. As the smallest
and poorest diocese in Ireland, Kilfenora was almost unable to function after the Great
Potato Famine, so in 1866 Pope Pius IX supported the town as best he could—by person-
ally declaring himself its bishop.
ForlunchinKilfenora,considerthecheapandcheery Burren Centre Tea Room (daily
9:30-17:30, located at far back of building) or the more atmospheric Vaughan's Pub. If
you're spending the night in County Clare, make a real effort to join the locals at the fun
set-dancing get-togethers run by the Vaughans in the Barn Pub, adjacent to their regular
pub (€5, Sun at 21:30, sometimes Thu, call ahead to confirm schedule, tel. 065/708-8004).
• To continue from Kilfenora into the heart of the Burren, head east out of town on
R-476. After about five kilometers (3 miles), you'll come to the junction with northbound
R-480. Take the sharp left turn onto R-480, and slow down to gaze up (on the left) at the
ruins of...
Leamaneh Castle
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