County Clare and the Burren - Ireland 2014 - page 413

065/707-5949, mobile [phone], www.doolin2aranferries.com ) and O'Brien Line
(tel. [phone], www.obrienline.com ) —offer almost identical cruise options. Both
make the one-hour voyage past sea stacks and crag-perching birds. Boats depart from the
pier in Doolin (same dock as Aran Islands boat, €20, runs daily April-Oct, 3/day, weather
and tides permitting, call or go online for sailing schedule and to reserve). They also op-
erate day-trip cruises from Doolin to Inisheer (the closest Aran Island—described in the
Aran Islands chapter), then along the base of the Cliffs of Moher and back to Doolin (for
details, see here ) .
Doolin
This town was once a strange phenomenon. Many music lovers would go directly from
Paris or Munich to Doolin, which was on the tourist map for its traditional music. A few
years ago, this was a mecca for Irish musicians, who came together here to play before
a few lucky aficionados. But now the crowds and the foreigners have overwhelmed the
musicians, and the quality of music is not as reliable. I prefer Dingle's richer music scene.
Still, as Irish and European fans crowd the pubs, the bodhrán beat goes on.
Doolin has plenty of accommodations and a Greek-island-without-the-sun ambience.
The “town” is just a few homes and shops strung out along a valley road from the tiny
harbor. Residents generally divide the town into an Upper Village and Lower Village. The
Lower Village is the closest thing to a commercial center (meaning it has a couple of pubs
and a couple of music CD shops). The Upper Village has a TI at Hotel Doolin that gener-
ally exists to book lodging and Aran Islands boat trips (mid-March-Oct daily 9:00-19:00,
tel. [phone]).
Doolin Activity Lodge offers a handy grab-bag of services, including recommended
accommodations, an Internet café (€3/30 minutes, free to lodgers, daily 8:00-21:00, 4 ter-
minals), and a launderette (drop-off only, pick up clothes in 6 hours, no self-service, same
hours as café). The staff can also recommend local horseback riding, hiking, and fishing
options.
Activities in Doolin
Traditional Music
Doolin is famous for three pubs, all featuring Irish folk music: Nearest the harbor, in
the Lower Village, is Gus O'Connor's Pub (tel. [phone]). A mile farther up the
road, the Upper Village—straddling a bridge—is home to two other destination pubs:
McGann's (tel. [phone]) and McDermott's (tel. [phone]). Music starts in the