Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Then head up Green Street.
Dick Mack,
across from the church, is nicknamed “the last
pew.” This was once a tiny leather shop that expanded into a pub at night. Today, Dick
Mack keeps the old leather-shop ambience but sells only drinks, with several rooms, a fine
snug (private booth, originally designed to allow women to drink discreetly), ample beer
choices, and a fascinating ambience. Notice the Hollywood-type stars on the sidewalk out-
side, recalling famous visitors. The pub was established in 1899 by Dick Mack (master of
the westernmost train station in Europe), whose mission was to provide “liquid replenish-
ment” to travelers. The grandson of the original Dick Mack runs the place today. A paint-
ing in the window shows Dick Mack II with the local gang.
Green Street climbs to Main Street, where two more Dick Mack-type places are filled
with locals deep in conversation (but no music):
Foxy John's
(a hardware shop by day)
and
Ó Curráin's
(across the street, a small clothing shop by day).
A bit higher up Main Street is
McCarthy's Bar,
a smokestained relic. It's less touristy
and has occasional traditional-music sessions on its little stage. Wander down Main Street.
The
Dingle Pub
is well established as
the
place for folk-ballad singing rather than the
churning traditional beat of an Irish folk session. At the bottom of Main Street,
Small
Bridge Bar
offers live music nightly. Its dimly lit confines are popular for good reason:
Eoin Duignan, an accomplished local piper, often plays here. While the tourists gather
around the music, poke around the back and do an end run around the wall, which leads to
a window nook with great views that is actually closest to the musicians.
And the
Court House Pub
(on The Mall, next to the old gray courthouse) is a steamy
little hideaway with low ceilings and highcaliber musicians. Owner Tommy O'Sullivan is
a guitar-strumming fixture on the trad music scene.
Off-Season:
From October through April, the music semihibernates. But on weekends,
your best bets are the Small Bridge Bar, O'Flaherty's, and John Benny Moriarty's.
Other Nightlife
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Folk Concerts
If you're not a night owl, these are your best opportunity to hear Irish traditional music in
a more controlled, early-evening environment. Keep in mind that in these settings, many
of the musicians find flash photography to be an irritating distraction.
Top local musicians offer a quality evening of live, acoustic, traditional Irish music in
the fine little
St. James' Church,
just off Main Street. If you prefer not to be packed into
a pub with the distractions of conversation, these concerts are a good option. They are or-
ganized by local piper Eoin Duignan, whose command of the melodic
uilleann
bagpipes
is a highlight most nights (€12 in advance, €15 at the door; Mon, Wed, and Fri at 19:30,
