Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
While two pubs, the Small Bridge Bar (An Droichead Beag) and O'Flaherty's, are
the most famous for their atmosphere and devotion to traditional Irish music, make a point
to wander the town and follow your ear. Smaller pubs may feel a bit foreboding to a tour-
ist, but rest assured that people—locals as well as travelers—are out for the craic. Irish
culture is very accessible in the pubs; they're like highly interactive museums waiting to
be explored. If you sit at a table, you'll be left alone. But stand or sit at the bar and you'll
be engulfed in conversation with new friends. Have a glass in an empty, no-name pub and
chat up the publican. Pubs are no longer smoky, but can be stuffy and hot, so leave your
coat at home. I know it's going to be a great trad music session when my eyeglasses steam
up as I enter.
Pub Crawl: The best place to start a pub crawl is along Holyground Street at
O'Flaherty's. Quietly intense owner Fergus O'Flaherty, a fixture since my first visit to
Dingle, can belt out a tune as he joins a varying lineup of loyal local musicians. Talented
Fergus sings and plays a half-dozen different instruments during nightly traditional-music
sessions. His domain has a high ceiling and is dripping in old-time photos and town mem-
orabilia—it's unpretentious, cluttered fun.
Moving up Strand Street, find John Benny Moriarty's. Its dependably good
traditional-music sessions come with John himself joining in on accordion when he's not
pouring pints.
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