Dingle Peninsula - Ireland 2014 - page 345

1970, the movie Ryan's Daughter introduced the world to Dingle. The trickle of
Dingle fans has grown to a flood as word of its musical, historical, gastronomical,
and scenic charms—not to mention its friendly dolphin—has spread.
Cross the roundabout and walk 20 yards along the river up “The Mall” to the two
stubby redbrick pillars that mark the entry to the police station. These pillars are all that
remain of the 19th-century British Constabulary, which afforded a kind of Green Zone for
British troops when they tried to subdue the local insurgents here. It was burned down in
1922, during the Civil War; the present building dates from 1938.
The big white crucifix across the street and 50 yards up The Mall is a memorial to her-
oes who died in the 1916 Uprising. Note that it says in the people's language, “For honor
and glory of Ireland, 1916 to 19 .” The date is unfinished until Ireland is united and free.
The names listed are of patriots executed by the English, and one who died while on a hun-
ger strike.
At the Russels B&B sign, take 15 paces up the driveway to see an old stone etched with
a cross sitting atop the fence (on the right). This marks the site of a former Celtic holy
well, a sacred spot for people here 2,000 years ago. Back across the street, check out the
gurgling stream straddled by a couple of houses.
A few yards up is another much-honored spot: the distribution center for Guinness.
From this warehouse, pubs throughout the peninsula are stocked with beer. The wooden
kegs have been replaced by what locals fondly call “iron lungs.”
Farther up and across the street is the 19th-century courthouse. Once a symbol of Brit-
ish oppression, today it's a laid-back place where, on the last Friday of each month, the
roving County Kerry judge drops by to adjudicate cases (mostly domestic disputes and
drunken disorderliness). Next door, with the blue walls, is the popular and recommended
Court House Pub.
The next intersection is the “Small Bridge” (a little stream runs under the road).
Continuing straight would take you up the road a few miles to the ruggedly scenic Conor
Pass. Instead, turn left into the commercial heart of the town, up Main Street. The old
stagecoach from Tralee ended at Dingle's first hotel, the recommended Benners (halfway
up on the left), with its Georgian facade and door surviving. Across the street, up a short
gravel alley, is St. James' Church. Since the 13th century, a church has stood here (just
inside the medieval wall). Today, it's Anglican on Sundays and filled with great traditional
music several nights a week (schedule on gate; also see “Nightlife in Dingle,” later).
Continue uphill and poke your head into two of Dingle's most unapologetically tradi-
tionaldrinkingholes,whichfaceeachotheracrossMainStreet: Ó Curráin's (ontheright)