Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bring your camera, a sandwich lunch (easy to buy at the recommended Skellig Mist
Bakery in Portmagee), water, sunscreen, rain gear, hiking shoes, and your sense of wonder.
Weather Warning: Landing on Skellig Michael is highly weather-dependent. If the
seas are too choppy, the boats cannot safely drop people at the concrete island pier (it's a
bit like jumping off a trampoline onto an ice rink). Excursions are scheduled to run daily
from Easter to late September, but experienced boat captains say they are able to bring vis-
itors ashore roughly five days out of seven in an average summer week.
Your best bet is to reserve a room near Portmagee or St. Finian's Bay—whichever best
fits your itinerary. (It's possible to sleep in Kenmare and get up early to drive two hours
straight to Portmagee—but you'll be frustrated by not having time to enjoy the Ring's at-
tractions along the way). Then call a few days in advance to make a boat reservation. Keep
your fingers crossed for good weather. Contact the boat operator on the morning of depar-
ture to get the final word. If the seas are too rough, he can tell from Portmagee and will
make a decision that morning whether to go (rather than taking passengers halfway out,
then aborting).
Visiting Skellig Michael
Since you'll have only 2.5 hours to explore the island, begin by climbing the seemingly
unending series of stone stairs to the monastic ruins (600 vertical feet of uneven steps with
no handrails). Save most of your photographing for the way down. Those who linger too
long below risk missing the enlightening 20-minute free talk among the beehive huts, giv-
en by guides who camp on the island from April through October. Afterward, poke your
head into some of the huts and try to imagine the dark, damp, and devoted life of a monk
here more than 1,000years ago.After rambling throughthe ruins,youcan give intophoto
frenzy as you wander back down the stairs.
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