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the chair behind his desk if you were lower-class. Under no circumstances would he come
downstairs to greet anyone.
Cost and Hours: €5, €8-combo ticket with Chorister's Hall, same hours as Chorister's
Hall—see earlier, tel. 051/304-500, www.waterfordtreasures.com .
Tours: Your visit will be enriched by the entertaining 45-minute free tours conducted
by actors in period dress, who inhabit the palace as servants of the bishop (June-Aug
hourly 10:00-17:00, Sept-May hourly 11:00-16:00).
Visiting the Palace: You'll work your way through three floors spiced with characters
like Waterford-born action hero Thomas Francis Meagher (see sidebar). You'll learn why
the province of Newfoundland in Canada owes over 50 percent of its population to immig-
rants from Waterford. And if you've ever wondered what bull baiting is, you'll be filled in
on this equally cruel (and long outlawed) Irish version of a bullfight.
Other Sights in Waterford
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
In 1793, the English king granted Ireland the Irish Relief Act, which, among other things,
allowed the Irish to build Catholic churches and worship publicly. With Catholic France
(30 million) threatening Protestant Britain (8 million) on one side, and Catholic Ireland
(6 million) stirring things up on the other, the king needed to take action to lessen Irish
resentment. Allowed new freedom, the Irish built this interesting cathedral in 1796. It's
Ireland's first Catholic post-Reformation church and its only Baroque church. The build-
ing was funded by wealthy Irish wine merchants who were flourishing in Cádiz, Spain.
Among its treasures are 10 Waterford Crystal chandeliers.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:00-19:00.
Nearby: The cathedral faces Barronstrand Street, which leads from the clock tower
on the harborfront through the pedestrian-friendly town square to Patrick Street. The
street separates the medieval town (on your left when the river is behind you) from the
18th-century city (on your right). A river once flowed here—part of the town's natural de-
fenses just outside the old wall. The huge shopping center that dominates the old town
was built right on top of the Viking town. In fact, the center is built over a church dating
from 1150, which you can see at the bottom of the escalator (behind the glass, next to the
kiddie rides).
Christ Church Cathedral
The Protestant cathedral, with 18th-century Georgian architecture, is the fourth church to
stand here. Look for the exposed Gothic column six feet below today's floor level, a rem-
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