Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Strongbow's success was so rapid that King Henry II got worried about a rival
kingdom blossoming on his flank. He quickly gathered his navy and sailed over
from England to make sure Strongbow knew who was boss—and to intimidate Irish
clan leaders into swearing loyalty to the Crown. England's first roots in Ireland had
been planted.
For the English, Waterford has often proved to be a tough nut to crack. During
Oliver Cromwell's brutal scorched-earth campaign of 1649-1650, he destroyed any
town still loyal to King Charles I, whom he had beheaded (see “The Curse of Crom-
well” sidebar, later). His forces decimated Ireland. But Waterford was the only Irish
city to withstand his siege.
Cost and Hours:
Tours-€12.50, depart every 30 minutes, April-Oct Mon-Sat
9:00-16:15, Sun 10:00-16:15, shorter hours off-season, call to confirm; shop free and open
longer hours; tel. 051/317-000,
www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
.
Getting There:
The Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre is conveniently located on a
street called The Mall, an easy one-block walk south of Reginald's Tower.
Visiting the Factory:
The tour begins with a bit of history and a look at an impressive
six-foot-tall crystal grandfather clock. It then loses momentum as you're ushered into a
glitzy and pointless five-minute fireworks film montage set to a techno beat. But things
pick up again as your guide takes you into the factory to meet the craftsmen in their ele-
ment. Glassblowers magically spin glowing blobs of molten crystal into exquisite and re-
cognizable shapes in minutes. If you get dizzy blowing up balloons for a kid's party, con-
sider the lung stamina that these craftsmen display (hot crystal is a lot heavier to heave
with a breath than thin rubber balloons). Watch closely as the glassblower puts his thumb
over the opening between breaths to keep the heat and pressure inside the blob constant.
Heavy molten crystal has an intentionally high lead content (it's what distinguishes fine
crystal from common glassware). A cooling-off stage allows the crystal to set. Then glass
cutters deftly cradle the fragile creations against diamond-edged cutting wheels, applying
exactly enough pressure to ensure that the grooves are replicated with surgical skill. Inter-
estingly, the craftsmen are not at risk of slicing themselves on the wheels, which cut hard
crystal but not soft flesh (I still can't figure that one out). The glasscutters will be glad to
demonstrate if you ask.
Watchcloselyastheskilledcuttersmuscleroughunfinishedpieces—weighingasmuch
as bowling balls—and cut intricate patterns. The crystal vases and bowls may look light
and delicate, but hold an unfinished piece (with its lead-enhanced heft) and you'll gain a
new appreciation for the strength, touch, and hand-eye coordination of the glass cutters.
